silviusm

Argentina, Chile si Uruguay (189 zile - 10.000km)

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Ziua 59 Vama Chile – San Pedro de Atacama – Socaire 300km

 

Ne-am trezit la 6:30 ca sa strangem si sa asteptam o masina care sa ne duca in Socaire de unde vom putea face mai departe autostop catre San Pedro.

Cu noi luam doar o geanta mica de bicicleta cu sac de dormit, izopren si cateva haine.

La 8:30 a venit prima masina care cara apa industriala (Agua Industrial) pentru mine. Un camion Hyundai cu 2 locuri. M-am bagat eu in spate si Cristi cu Razvan au stat pe un loc.

San Jorge (soferul) era foarte tare. Admira peisajul si se bucura de drum, chiar daca facea acelasi drum zilnic.

In doua ore am ajuns in Socaire. I-am zis lui Jorge ca ne vedem urmatoarea zi, de dimineata ca sa ne duca inapoi in vama.

In Socaire ne-am luat niste biscuiti de rontait si ne-am pus la autostop. Am asteptat o ora pana ne-a luat un miner ce mai avea putin si adormea la volan. Ne-a lasat exact in locul in care am dormit in noaptea 56 (unde ne-am intalnit cu Pikes on Bikes).

Aici am mai stat inca o ora. O masina cu turisti s-a oprit si a zis ca are doar un loc. S-a dus Razvan cu ei si ne-am vorbit ca sa ne intalnim in centrul orasului.

Cu Cristi am mai stat inca 20minute si s-a oprit un alt microbuz cu turisti care ne-a luat pe amandoi. Microbuzul s-a oprit in Toconao ca sa ii lase pe oameni sa viziteze.

Ne-am intalnit cu Razvan in centru si ne-am dus sa ne luam stampila pentru viza.

Ne-am dus la autogara ca sa cautam un autobuz pentru Socaire. Aici ne-a ajutat doamna de la autogara. Microbuzul pleca la 9 seara. A fost interesant in masina, fiind singurii turisti. La 12 noaptea am ajuns in Socaire unde ne-am culcat afara pe prispa unei case.

Mi-am dat seama ca am ramas fara ochelari.

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Ziua 60 (43km) Chile – Argentina | 3840m altitudine | la ora 21:50 erau 11°C

 

Trezirea a fost la 5:30. Stiam ca Agua Industrial pleaca la 6-7 dimineata. Micul dejun l-am luat unde mananca minerii.

La 8:30 am plecat. Am aflat ca Jorge lucreaza de 5 ani la firma si ca de trei luni este in zona Socaire – El Laco. El sta in Cuquimbo, orasul in care am vizitat portul si ne-a placut. Si ca mai are o fata.

La sfarsit politistul vames ne-a facut o poza impreuna cu Jorge.

La vama am scapat de doua perechi de pantaloni scurti, doua camasi scurte, o camasa lunga si o bluza cu maneca lunga + cizme.

Le-am multumit vamesilor si am plecat mai departe. Pe urcare ne-a prins o scurta ploaie.

A urmat o coborare frumoasa spre Argentina. Peisajul s-a schimbat total. In departare se vede o furtuna cu fulgere.

La vama s-a mirat politistul vames de cati bani avem la noi cash si ca de ce nu folosim cardul bancar (daca am face asta am pierde aproape 40% la conversia euro – dolar – pesos).

Drumul este mai bun.

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Ziua 60 (43km) Chile – Argentina | 3840m altitudine | la ora 21:50 erau 11°C - continuare

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Ziua 61 (47km) Cauchai | 3985m altitudine | la ora 22:00 erau 10°C [Argentina]
 
Dimineata a observat Cristi ca are doua coliere rupte la portbagajul fata si pe spate rupta o sudura jos la prindere. Aici ne-am certat putin din cauza ca nu a vrut sa isi ia portbagaje mai bune.
In timp ce a schimbat Cristi colierele si a prins cu soricei la portbagajul de pe spate, eu am facut un buff dintr-o bluza cu maneca lunga.
Eu am mai luat din bagajul lui Cristi ca sa nu solicitam portbagajul pana il securizam mai bine.
Ma dor ochii rau din cauza soarelui. Trebuie sa imi tin privirea indreptata in jos si cu sapca pusa ca sa pot merge.
Drumul este mai bun decat in Chile.
Vazut multe lame. Cristi si Razvan au vazut un fel de pisica pufoasa maronie (pui de puma?)
Dormim in satul parasit Cauchai.

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Ziua 61 (47km) Cauchai | 3985m altitudine | la ora 22:00 erau 10°C [Argentina] - continuare

 

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Ziua 62 (58km) 3900m altitudine | la ora 22:15 erau 9°C [Argentina]
 
Dimineata am facut un ceai cu frunze de coca.
In Olacapato (cea mai inalta asezare din Argentina; in 2001 erau 168 de locuitori) mi-am lasat una din gecile de ploaie la biserica.
Apa am luat de la scoala din sat. Am avut noroc sa gasim si un magazin de unde ne-am luat suc, 3 pachete de biscuiti si 15 prajiturele ce semanau cu Magura de la noi.
Doua lame din sat s-au bagat cu nas.
In pasul Chorillo (4560m) eu m-am oprit sa ma schimb. Era putin racoare si aducea a ploaie. Ne-am dat la vale 600m altitudine ca sa mai scapam de nori.
De cand am intrat in Argentina au fost cateva furtuni pe langa noi.
Corturile le-am pus intr-o veche casa fara acoperis.

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Ziua 62 (58km) 3900m altitudine | la ora 22:15 erau 9°C [Argentina] - continuare

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Ziua 63 (18km) San Antonio de los Cobres | 3775m altitudine [Argentina]
 
Orasul este friguros, se simte o atmosfera de iarna.
Am fost la un restaurant unde am mancat.
A plouat cu piatra.
Cazare am gasit intr-un hostel cu 80$/persoana.
Pe seara am fost sa mancam o empanada cu carne de lama si sa facem cumparaturi pentru pasul Abra del Acay (4895m).
Dintr-un magazin mi-am luat ochelari de soare.

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Ziua 64 San Antonio de los Cobres [Argentina]
 
Astazi mi-am curatat lantul la bicicleta.
Razvan si Cristi s-au tuns.
Majoritatea barbatilor din oras mesteca frunze de coca.
Am incercat de la o brutarie multe prajituri cu dulce de leche si marmelada.
Maine vom pleca.
Ochelarii cumparati din oras.

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Provizii pentru zilele care urmeaza.

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Ziua 65 (32km) San A. de los C. – ~aproape de pas | 4500m altitudine | la ora 21:25 erau 4°C [Argentina]

La plecare am cumparat suc de la un magazin si am revenit dupa 1 minut sa iau si o sticla de apa, dar nu mai era nimeni in magazin. Asa ca am luat sticla de apa si am lasat banii cu un bilet.

Am intrat pe ruta40 si drumul este bun.

Surubul de la portbagajul lui Razvan s-a rupt.

Ne-am campat pe drum pentru ca nu aveam unde si nici nu mai voiam sa pedalam.

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Ziua 66 (51km) 3200m altitudine | la ora 20:40 erau 16°C [Argentina]
 
Drumul urca cu serpentine care nu sunt abrupte.
Razvan isi facea griji ca nu o sa se descurce bine la altitudine mare, dar acum nu a mai avut durerile din Chile.
In pas Cristi incearca sa ajunga la 5000m urcand un deal din apropiere.
Coborarea este fenomenala. Ne intalnim cu un cicloturist argentinian ce urca si era obosit. Era plecat de doua zile din La Pona.
Peisajele se schimba dupa fiecare curba. Au aparut copacii si cactusii.
Facem multe traversari prin apa pe si pe langa bicicleta.
Valea pe care coboram se numeste Calchaquies.

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Ziua 66 (51km) 3200m altitudine | la ora 20:40 erau 16°C - continuare [Argentina]

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Ziua 66 (51km) 3200m altitudine | la ora 20:40 erau 16°C - continuare [Argentina]

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Ziua 67 (48km) [Argentina]

Au aparut terenurile verzi si agricultura.
In La Poma o fata care vindea la un magazin zambea mult. Drumul este bun cu apa si vegetatie.
Am surprins un tatu ce traversa drumul.
Dupa mult timp ne campam pe iarba.

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Ziua 67 (48km) [Argentina] - continuare

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Ziua 67 (48km) [Argentina] - continuare

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Ziua 68 (25km) Cachi [Argentina]

 

Mergem la vale spre Cachi. In oras avea loc un concurs de biciclete.
Ne-am campat in camping-ul municipal cu 20$/persoana.
Plimbare prin oras.

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Ziua 69 Cachi [Argentina]

 

Mai stam o noapte in camping. La posta nu mai aveau timbre pentru cartile postale.

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Ziua 70 (65km) | la ora 21:20 erau 20°C [Argentina]

 

Este cald afara si avem vant din faţă. Multi papagali zboara pe langa noi.
Au mai aparut vacile, fermele si nelipsitele garduri.
Seara a ploua mult.

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Ziua 71 (79km) San Carlos [Argentina]
 
Avem pe drum portiuni de nisip. Cristi a cazut din cauza vitezei si a nisipului.
Vedem un peisaj lunar cu creste indoite de vant si apa.
Campam in campingul din San Carlos (60$/cort). Eu dorm in hamac.

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Ziua 72 (35km) San Carlos – Cafayate [Argentina]
 
Cristi si Razvan s-au dus sa viziteze cheile Las Conchas si sa doarma undeva prin ele, iar eu m-am indreptat direct spre Cafayate. Ramane sa ne vedem in camping.
La intrarea in oras se afla Piscina Municipala pe care am vizitat-o (10$) dupa ce m-am campat.
Seara au venit si baietii, pentru ca nu au putut campa in chei fiind rezervatie.

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Ziua 72 (35km) San Carlos – Cafayate [Argentina] - continuare

 

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Ziua 73 Cafayate [Argentina]

S-a alergat un catel din camping cu noi pana in oras (40km/h). Ne-am luat inghetata mare cu 14$.
Am fost la bazin toti trei. In timp ce stateam pe banca a bubuit roata fata a lui Cristi.

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Ziua 74 (95km) Cafayate – San Jose [Argentina]

 

Cand am plecat din camping, ne-a prins catelul care ne-a alergat ieri si a venit cu noi. Am incercat sa il gonim dar nu a vrut. Ii place sa alerge dupa noi, chiar daca afara este foarte cald. I-am dat numele Cuarentita (este fetita). Am facut mai multe pauze ca sa ii dam un pic de ragaz si apa.
In urmatorul oras (14km) am vorbit cu niste oameni din parc sa gasim o solutie sa o lasam la ei pana plecam noi. Asa ca au legat-o de un copac si urma sa ii dea drumul la o ora dupa plecarea noastra. Cuarentita urla tare dupa noi, dar nu aveam cum sa o luam  fiind prea cald pentru ea sa alerge prin desert. Cu parere de rau ne-am despartit de un tovaras bun de drum, cu pofta mare de hoinarit.
In Santa Maria am facut cunostinta cu o fetita draguta pe numele San Mira care ne-a pus tot felul de intrebari haioase.

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Ziua 75 (91km) [Argentina]

Pe drum ne-am intalnit cu un cicloturist olandez ce mergea in sens opus. I-a placut cricul nostru improvizat asa ca i-am dat si lui unul cado :) (cric = picior de scaun recuperat de la un scaun pliabil care a cedat intre timp).
Am gasit un camping inchis in care am campat peste noapte.

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