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Tekirdag si peninsula Gallipoli

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Hai noroc la toată lumea.

 

Turcia mi se pare o ţară fascinantă care are enorm de multe de oferit.

Nu mă dau cunoscător al Turciei pentru că n-am reuşit până acum să depăşesc linia imaginară Samsun – Ankara – Izmir – Ceşme (colţul nord-vestic al ţării)

Iar o tură în nord-estul Anatoliei sau la Mediterana turcească mă atrage de foarte mult timp.

Că să nu mai vorbesc despre Iran (era şi Siria pe listă, însă acum şi probabil ceva timp de aici înainte nu va fi cazul).

 

În perioada 2010 – 2012 am fost de două ori pe an în Turcia, ultima data în septembrie 2012. Pe scurt, îmi era dor de Turcia.

Îmi era dor de spectacolul străzii, îmi era dor de mâncarea şi ceaiul turcesc, îmi era dor de felul de a fi al turcilor şi de deschiderea şi bunăvoinţa pe care o au faţă de străini.

Am încercat anii trecuţi să ajung în Turcia,, dar din diverse motive nu am reuşit.

Însă anul asta au mers toate bine şi, după o pauză de 4 ani, m-am întors în Turcia.

Aşadar.

 

Joi, 06.10.2016

 

Am intrat în Turcia pe la Derekoy, la sud de Burgas (pe partea bulgară se numeşte Malko Târnovo).

În Bulgaria, cum mai puţin de 1 km înainte de graniţă este o benzinărie Lukoil, tocmai bună pentru un plin, deşi în Turcia preţul benzinei a mai scăzut, nu mai este fix 2 Euro / litrul cum era în 2012.

 

La graniţa, doar control sumar la bagaje şi acte din partea bulgarilor.

 

În Turcia, prima data se ajunge la o gheretă cu barieră deservită de un turc îmbrăcat în trening.

I-am dat omului paşaportul, acesta a tastat ceva în computer, după care mi-a restituit paşaportul şi mi-a ridicat bariera.

 

Urmează ghiseul Poliţiei de frontieră turceşti. Aici am găsit un turc în uniformă, care a scanat paşaportul, a mai butonat ceva în computer şi mi-a pus ştampila de intrare în paşaport.

 

Următorul ghiseul este cel la care se înregistrează vehiculul.

Din câte ştiu, din motive de taxe relativ mari, înregistrarea vehiculului se face pentru a preîntâmpina vânzarea acestuia în Turcia.

Ieşirea din Turcia nu se poate face fără vehicul, excepţie fiind excursiile în insulele greceşti aflate lângă staţiunile de la marea Egee precum Bodrum, Marmaris sau Kuşadasi.

 

Când am ajuns la ghişeu, turcul (în civil) tocmai pleca, spunandu-mi doar “five minutes”.

N-au trecut mai mult de două minute pentru ca la ghişeul a apărut o gagică în blugi şi camaşă albastra, coafată, rujata, fardată, aranjată şi cu unghiile făcute.

Asta pentu că tot cunosc nişte meseriaşi care susţin că Turcia este o ţară islamică unde femeile umblă cu vizetă pe faţă.

Gagica a fost foarte operativă, talon – cartea verde – paşaport şi în mai putin de 30 de secunde am rezolvat-o şi cu înregistrarea vehiculului.

 

A urmat controlul vamal, unde un turc mai bătrân, la costum şi cravată mi-a inspectat sumat bagajul, după care mi-a spus “OK, you can go”.

 

Înaite de ieşirea din zona vămii mai este o ghertă cu barieră, unde turcul de ghişeu (în uniformă) probabil îi verifică pe turcii dinaintea lui, pentru că se uită doar în paşaport fără a mai butona ceva la computer.

Aşadar, eram în Turcia.

 

Toată treaba de la graniţa a durat sub 10 minute, faţă de vreo juma de oră cât a durat în 2012 (tot pe aici am intrat).

Acum, turcii pareau mai fluenţi şi mai bine organizaţi, plus că toată treaba mergea cursiv, de la un ghişeu la altul. În 2012, intrai într-o cladire mare şi te tot plimbai, aparent fără nicio logică, pe la mai multe ghişee.

Acum, clădirea respective parea părăsită.

 

Limitele turceşti de viteză.

 

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Începe drumul prin Turcia.

 

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De la graniţa cu Bulgaria până în Georgia, Iran, Iraq şi Siria se merge doar printr-o singură ţară. Ar mai fi şi Armenia, însă graniţa este închisă de mult timp (enclava azeră Nakhchivan nu o mai luăm în calcul).

 

Punctul de frontieră Derekoy.

 

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Traducerea a ceea ce se vede scris în poza de mai sus “poarta vamală Derekoy”.

 

Derekoy – Kirklareli - Babaeski – Luleburgaz nimic deosebit.

Doar că m-am salutat cu niste turci cu care am stat puţin de vorbă la Lukoil-ul din Bulgaria de lângă graniţă.

 

Deocamdata Luleburgaz nu are centură şi trebuie traversat tot oraşul.

Nu este o problemă, deoarece traversarea oraşului se face pe un bulverad larg, de două benzi pe sens.

La un moment dat, după ce am plecat de la un semnafor, la vreo 500 de metri am oprit la o trecere pentru pietoni.

Văzându-mă pietonii se uitau aproape socaţi la mine iar maşinile din spate au început să clazoneze discret.

Uitasem că în Turcia trecerea de pietoni are mai mult caracter decorativ.

 

După Luleburgaz am virat dreapta spre Muratli şi apoi Tekirdag, destinaţia finală a zilei.

Pe aici, calitatea drumului mai scade, asfaltul este pe unele porţiuni vălurit, însă nimic de speriat.

În schimb, centrura Tekirdag-ului este coală de hârtie.

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Joi, 06.10.2016 - Partea a II-a


Am uitat sa spun ca imediat dupa intrarea in Turcia am primit un sms de la Ministerul de Externe roman cu detaliile de contact ale ambasadei Romaniei din Ankara.
Cu ocazia asta am aflat ca adresa amabasadei este Bokres Sokak, adica strada Bucuresti.
Frumos din partea turcilor.
N-am inteles de ce nu am am primit si datele de contact ale consulatului de la Istanbul, insa asta conteaza mai putin.


Panoul de intrare din fiecare oras turcesc.

 

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Nufus = populatie.
Rakim = altitudine
Unele panouri contin doar populatia, fara altitudine.

 

Statuia lui Ataturk din Tekirdag.

 

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Conform a ceea ce scrie pe Wikipedia, acesta este singura statuie care-l infatiseaza pe Ataturk in marime naturala, la dimensiunile lui originale.
In rest, Ataturk este prezent peste tot, in mediul public si privat, inclusiv pe fiecare bancnota turceasca.


Ataturk si alfabetizarea cu caractele latine. 

 

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Introducerea caracterlor latine a fost una dintre principalele reforme ale lui Ataturk.
Pana la Ataturk [incepuptul anil '20 ai secolului trecut] turcii scriau cu caractere arabe.


Moscheea Rustem Pasa.

 

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Din pacate, moscheea era in renovare.

 

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Meseria de lustragiu inca exista la scara larga in Turcia.

 

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Posta turca detine un serviciu propriu de cargo iar Posta din RO parca a fost aproape de faliment in anii trecuti.

 

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Joi, 06.10.2016 - Partea a III-a


Moscheea Orta.

 

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Cismeaua din curtea moscheii unde credinciosii de spala pe picioare inainte de rugaciune.
Se observa ca treaba este bine organizata, cu un fel de scaun pus langa sursa de apa.

 

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Nisa de pe fundal se numeste mihrab si indica directia Meccai.

 

IWmynvMBURam3UVixGFH0QtymWwXe6WICt-gMS-1rn8gp5E7l0YauYn8UF70h9bNAHObZYk7NqizFJ8ds6WirnpMbc1DneoX4LhyZHxZ3G3JCMac5GAe1F4eb1HGI1t-BtSp3U8EVTX0UNG48xK-Yib9yj29ptgysrCfUKsX2k_4NYY4H61LYfG-zZ1OvMTw4m9Jrul5nI2lkigZ1SJC4cLvYmw3VP5rT2iaSeK6CxHiM_RIDn53Fsc3Qn0hJF3uGelXmIEvUhy0SBMInEnIRtFbHTNmRdfxDDEyNlgxF-3WBiauUi_yiFm7Dseh5NiiixMfjy59M4UU8GbE1pZy5e-EwJ7KmPsmE-ekI0Mn6yXQffHD7SDDDnelb2A_3kRMKgadhMNwumAQGxe-0cGFEbywAiVquTUJJPaHKUlpxdAI6bbkU9aX6CKBmzwJND5Vah1nxHm0QoHjaYNIJ6uMGFv0sMc8GLaNxZAaH6bA9I6yKb79h1Won6OfydwgBr3Gg_TVz98jkI8qbVoisw6vrSemPsuz_Gx4nkxbnHJBppbpEdvdgbNE5tzyaark6KSRII0uTbsrxXEK4gBB0j5sH1xdKKaMeVSiTQgJLvCNGM1VoZI=w851-h638-no


Vazut mai de aproape.

 

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Minbar-ul, oarecum similar cu amvonul din bisericile crestine.

 

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Raftul in care se lasa incaltarile, amplasat langa intrarea in moschee.

 

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Toaleta subterna din curtea moscheii

 

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dotata inclusiv cu ascensor pentru persoanele cu dizabilitati.

 

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Poza din care se observa islamizarea societatii turcesti, mai ales a femeilor.

 

X4HWsNerudPoKHL2sSUVoK1439pZXqE2gj23XI_0wYRyaqcpwrpDwTce8kBhZQ7ybYoSt-GOQk_OWJy4rMZw6K3aYTX0TkgmQRhhUh3_bghjDU0VeRySFdQ-DMiH6mIPMqAAsh0wXnj0m99mD2lhIqsGOg02q7aRsK9vP9MeHY_fB2a2Z-t9bVPcIdpnxl-y4Ap4doWKAE-i5WZ2mdQq-E023odJfBT31e6s0m1TVcsS5tREr0vyO9b-drdBekXLnMZlStbUeNPw2Wa3mseKm1cu-GGnTfmW7bJObKdMDdCf4eUbz1kqyFkwhjedImQlRYZYS4hzO0KiWdbe-5_HNW1f6gV1stGWNBOzTbmCvAJbGafD-ld-_xDJOPYunQf34Ho5jUuZcG0B8OGJq2QaHAX8akkfxf_ikePIHphYsLclW8hDDHnqHor5NITJi1DkMEfo-axwS5oQCrCBXDbjBEnwMFPKzpDPe_R73Q5ya1O_EA5PetBQHVlkS2QwCq3OIWgCK2qsBzgsc6qVC0O0JiAqV9mLzz0MnN88JrJZROlFHois5vt9WG_-_5QjKNJVSLHQjyUU_B5sfdAnxZlUhm-IFQSiXYsQK6-wBxzcsWePx9E=w851-h638-no


Alt monumet despre Ataturk si alfabetizarea cu caractere latine.
 

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Joi, 06.10.2016 – Partea a IV-a

 

Făcură turcii baraj pe Bosfor.

 

KMlKY0UqrDMvIVRbhgfrIPINjQQpB8sQrxlWe-d7L7Naqf428xVkbAoTMc90jfFHdtd9fGcLJHwxuVDIm-9bvZtmTNvDCnJXs3v3eZPk_liesacwasgyMo5skKiKvhoPw8wh_FXughDn2g4BJXM4nlV1HCrtVGNvPQ2Smb8Sx8Cm2y6qjFF_P9S_HVz-R0QWumcnffu8ecEcp0Wi5yWW2N-7nYBW1DyNoh-pvrluNtakXBXoPn7rK9gfLUBTuFq-QMCtVcxda2ecygwE5tWWVZB79Rn_KOLnlCO0j8Mb0FFN48AtZUXVZz4vGcwMLyG4LEl3Gof6wd-4c3ulfleHu6dc15jxH4JqaUn9jdAlEAQDjEs2pHsMT1jhukDyhSM76hhHPXiQ4UKjxiyyt03sPgbI9QHM3AX4t6t48dFpXM_sPXdLHEQEwO4R0YYVkuL11ftHf2QmcETX4jfcxjxdghOHp_Aza6snq8PTJWZjZSGz5TRdK2CaAlcUzPCgbeFuN6O6Mm9H949YEBvGeh_Cxtk1M--NnbIGwTFMihB1em6ZIjIl4IJdaz2Xm1suZK2HLB83KiIoVW2KR2futb-RZKRt2PV8KHSz76T2UnOYWHD1V9A=w603-h804-no

 

De fapt era afişul care anunta că în perioada 09-13 Octombrie la Istanbul urma să se desfăşoare Congresul Energetic Mondial.

 

Deja îmi era foame, aşa că am început cu un sandwich de peşte, bun dar nimic deosebit.

Plus că avea o grămadă de pâine.

Când m-am uitat mai bine, am văzut că turcul avea şi scoici cu orez, aşa că am mâncat vreo 5.

Cam aşa arată (pozele sunt mai vechi, din Istanbul din 2011).

 

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Nu par prea apetisante, însă udate din belşug cu zeamă de lămăie, sunt un deliciu.

Practic este o combinaţie între carnea de scoică şi orezul gătit cu tot felul de mirodenii, combinaţie finala care este făcută în cuptor (sau cel puţin asta am înţeles).

 

A urmat varianta turcească de mici, cu un sos uite perfect pe gustul meu.

 

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Plus deliciul culinar al serii, respectiv farfuria cu iaurt care se vede în poza de mai sus, în plan îndepărtat.

Nu arată deloc aptisant, însă sub iaurt era o combinaţie acrişoară între orez si lobodă, o nebunie.

Dacă nu m-aş fi umplut cu sandwich-ul de peşte, as mai fi luat o porţie de orez cu lobodă.

 

Varianta tucească de ouzo, numită raki.

 

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La fel ca şi ouzo, are un gust pregnant de pastă de dinţi.

Se spune că la Tekirdag se face cel mai bun raki, aşa că am incercat şi eu unul mic, combinat cu apă.

Nu mi-a plăcut.

Mâncarea plus rachiul au costa 33 de Lire, adica puţin sub 10 Euro.

 

Seara s-a încheiat cu două ceaiuri turceşti, de care îmi era dor.

 

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Foarte fain!

Îmi place prezentarea ce tocmai o începuși :D

 

Iaurtul cu lobodă și orez sună teribil de interesant.

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Mda - unii stau si viseaza - altii calatoresc. Bravo. O mica precizare daca imi permiti - referitor la " excepţie fiind excursiile în insulele greceşti aflate lângă staţiunile de la marea Egee precum Bodrum, Marmaris sau Kuşadasi. " - poti iesi dar lasi masina in custodia vamii turcestii - sau ceva de genul care era acum ...vreo 10 ani undeva la ~100$ pe zi. Si uite asa nu am vazut eu Rodosul...

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@diorgulescu

Multumesc.

Chiar a fost de vis combinatia turceasca de iaurt, orez si loboda. Plus ca orezul era gatit cu tot felul de mirodenii.

Cel mai tare a fost ca orezul l-am luat "la ghici" deoarece turcul nu avea menu la carciuma, doar m-a rugat sa imi aleg dintr-o vitrina ce vreau sa mananc.

 

 

@tzunoi

Multumesc.

Nu stiu prea multe despre iesirea temporara din Turcia fara masina cu care ai intrat. Doar am inteles, de la colegii de pe alt forum, ca pentru excursiile din statiunile de pe coasta marii Egee catre insulele grecesti fac turcii fac o exceptie si te lasa sa pleci.

Parca, nu mai stiu sigur, lasai talonul masinii la punctul de frontiera turcesc din port.

Oricum era vorba despre excursii de o zi, cu plecare dimineata si intoarcere seara.

 

 

Vineri, 07.10.2016


Cazarea la Tekirdag a fost la hotelul Rodosto, 45 Euro / noapte / camera cu mic dejun, luat de pe booking.com.
Hotelul este foarte tare, amplasat chiar lângă faleză şi centrul oraşului, parcarea nu este o problemă iar micul dejun a fost mai mult decât generos.
Site-ul hotelului (doar în turcă): http://rodostohotel.com.tr/


După micul dejun, înainte de plecare am vrut să fac nişte poze camerei în care am dormit, însă din păcate pentru mine, aparatul foto s-a defectat.
Concret, era vorba de un Cannon G9 (pe care il împumut de vreo 6 ani de la nişte prieteni) şi al cărui obiectiv nu se mai deschidea complet.
Se auzea în el un zgomot de rotit în gol, după care pe ecran aparare mesajul “eroare obiectiv – reportire aparat”.


Am eliberat camera, am lăsat bagajele la recepţie şi am plecat prin Tekirdag în speranţa că voi găsi de cumpărat alt aparat foto.
Oricât ar părea de ciudat, m-am plimbat aproape 2 ore prin zona centrală, am intrat în toate magazinele de electronice, inclusiv în cel din mall-ul oraşului, însă aparat foto n-am găsit.
Pur şi simplu, cel puţin în Tekirdag nu mai vindea nimeni aparate foto.


Am fost chiar şi la două centre foto iar turcii de la ambele m-au îndrumat spre acelaşi service de produse electronice.
Înapoi la hotel, pentru că aici recepţionerul turc vorbea engleză, am înţeles pe unde era amplasat service-ul, apoi cu cartea de vizită în mână şi întrebând alţi turci pe stada l-am găsit.
Turcul de aici mi-a spus că nu are cu ce să mă ajute şi m-a trimis la un service din Istanbul.


Aşa că sigura opţiune pentru poze a rămas un telefon mobil obişnuit (ne smartphone), cu o camera foto foarte slabă.
Drept pentru care, îmi cer scuze pentru calitatea următoarele poze (nu vor fi prea multe).


Faleza Tekirdagului, unde pe km buni există pistă de alergare din tartan şi pistă pentru biciclete.

 

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Muzeul Rakoczi.

 

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Este vorba despre Francisc [Ferenc] Rakoczi al II-lea [1676 - 1735], printre altele principe al Transilvaniei si conducatorul primei rascoale maghiare improtriva hapsburgilor, in perioada 1703 - 1711.
Dupa infrangerea maghiarilor de catre hapsburgi, Rakoczi a fost fortat sa plece in exil.
S-a plimbat cativa ani prin Europa fara sa fie acceptat iar in final singurul care l-a acceptat a fost sultanul otoman Ahmet a III-lea.
Rakoczi si anturajul lui s-au stabilit la Tekirdag in anul 1720 si a trait aici pana cand a murit, in anul 1735.
Casa in care a trait Rakoczi azi este azi muzeul din pozele de mai sus, proprietate a statului maghiar si loc de pelerianaj pentru maghiari.


Nu lipseste nici steagul tinutului Secuiesc.

 

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Mai multe detalii despre muzeu: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rákóczi_Museum,_Tekirdağ

 

Din Tekierdag, pentru o variatie de traseul am continuat alergare pe ruta Kumbag - Gazikoy - Sarkoy.
Dupa Kumbag, drumul incepe sa urce prin niste serpentine, uneori cam stranse, apoi coboara pe malul marii Marmara.
Cateva poze cu un drum spectaculos, care mi-a placut foarte mult.

 

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Varianta turceasca a indicatorului "Stop".

 

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Apoi, din Sarkoy pana la Kavakkoy drum OK, pe o banda pe sens.
Din  Kavakkoy pana la Eceabat nimic deosebit, drum expres [doua benzi pe sens si separare intre sensuri] pana aproape de Eceabat.
Ca fapt divers: desi in romana "koy" are alta conotatie, in turca, printre altele inseamna sat / asezare.

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Vineri, 07.10.2016 - Partea a II-a


Cazarea la Eceabat a fost la hotelul Crowded House, 18 Euro camera / noapte, cu mic dejun, luat de pe booking.com.
Site-ul hotelului: http://www.hotelcrowdedhouse.com/


Turcii spun ca numele hotelului vine de la o trupa rock australiana si ca nu are nicio legatura cu facilitatile de cazare.
N-as zice ca este tocmai adevarat, dupa ce am stat de 3 ori in acest hotel, in 2010, 2011 si 2016.
Pozele de mai jos sunt din octombrie 2011, atunci cand Crowded House era catalogat ca hostel.
Acum, in 2016, denumirea s-a schimbat in hotel, insa cel putin camerele single au ramas la fel. 
Deschiderea usii camerei single.

 

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In rest, camera era OK iar cabina de dus chiar generoasa.

 

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Micul dejun este acceptabil, cu margarina in loc de unt si ness in loc de cafea.
Insa la un tarif de 18 Euro pe noapte nici pretentiile nu pot fi prea mari.


Din cate am observat in alte hoteluri din Turcia, dimensiunea camerei este mica insa baia are tot timpul dimensiuni generoase.

E drept ca la all-inclusive in statiunile de pe coastele de la Egeea sau Mediterna turceasca n-am fost.


Hotelul Crowded House se afla la vreo 150 de metri de locul de imbracare pe ferryboat-ul care merge din ora in ora la Canakkale, pe partea estica a stamtorii Dardanele. Adica in Asia.
Traversarea stamtorii dureaza aproximativ 40 de minute, iar tariful pentru pietoni este 3 Lire [putin sub 1 euro].
Printre altele, in Canakkale exista calul troian care a jucat cu Brad Pitt in filmul Troia din 2004 [poze de anul asta].

 

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Turcii spun ca acesta este calul original iar dupa terminarea filmarilor, municipalitatea din Canakkale a cumparat calul folosit la filmari, cal care acum este una dintre atractiile orasului.

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Sâmbătă, 08.10.2016

 

Peninsula Gallipoli este locul unde s-au trosnit destul de rau, in 1915, pe de o parte turcii otomani, iar pe de alta parte, englezii, francezii, australienii, neo-zeelandezi plus niste senegalezi si cativa indieni.
Acum, zona este plina de cimitire militare si diverse monumente care amintesc de Campania de la Gallipoli.

Pe scurt, ideea a fost simpla: Winston Churchill, care in anul 1915 era un fel de ministrul al marinei (Primul Lord al Amiralitatii) a venit cu ideea fortarii stramtorilor Dardanele si Bosfor, pentru a cuceri Constantinopolul si a scoate imperiul Otoman din razboi.


Initial s-a mers pe idee unei operatiuni navale, insa turcii au minat stramtoarea Dardanele. Cateva nave aliate s-au scufundat lovite de mine, altele au fost lovite de obuze trase de pe coasta, astfel incat aliatii s-au speriat si au abandonat ideea unei operatiuni navale.
În mod ironic, daca aliatii ar fi continuat operatiunea navala ar fi avut mari sanse de succes, deorece bateriile turcesti de coasta aproape nu mai aveau munitie.

 

Ulterior, aliatii au optat pentru o debarcare in peninsula.
Nici asta n-a mers datorita opozitiei turcilor. Oarecum un fel de Marasesti turcesc. 

Operatiunea terestra a inceput in aprilie 1915 si s-a terminat in ianuarie 1916, cand aliatii au evacuat, cu coada intre picioare, peninsula Gallipoli.

 

La numarul de victime a cam fost egalitate, cam 250.000 de morti de fiecare parte.

Aici s-au afirmat, pe de o parte Ataturk (era comandantul unui sector de front) iar pe de alta parte, australienii si neo-zeelandezii, care luptau sub denumirea de ANZAC (Australia and New Zeeland Army Corps).
Acum, peninsula Gallipoli este loc de pelerinaj pentru baietii din emisfera sudica, aici considera ei ca s-au afirmat ca natiuni de sine statatoare.
Exista chiar si ANZAC Day (25 aprilie), zi in care se comemoreaza data de 25 aprilie 1915, ziua in zori careia a avut loc debarcarea intr-un golf din vestul peninsulei, care azi se numeste ANZAC Cove (ANZAC Coyu in turca).


ANZAC Day se sarbatoreste atat in peninsula Gallipoli, ocazie cu care australienii si neo-zeelandezii vin cu miile aici, cat si in Australia si Noua Zeelanda, unde, din cate am inteles, este o sarbatoare destul de importanta.

 

Sau, cel putin asta este varianta oficiala.

Varianta reala, pe care am aflat-o in 2011 de la un neo-zeelandez, proprietar de hostel in Chios: “Bloddy British, they’ve always put us, the Commonwealth troops, in the first line”

 

Despre Ataturk nu mai trebuie sa vorbesc pentru ca se stie cine a fost si ce a facut.

Mai multe detalii despre Campania din Gallipoli:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gallipoli_Campaign

 

Pozele care urmează sunt facute in Octombrie 2011, pentru ca anul asta, dupa cum am explicat mai sus, am ramas fara aparat foto.

In plus, prea multe nu s-au schimbat in peninsula in ultimii 5 ani (vom ajunge si la cele cateva schimbari).

 

Incepem de pe coasta de vest a peninsulei, putin mai la nord de Kabate, cu cimitirul Shrapnel Valley, unde majoritatea celor ingropati aici sunt australieni.

 

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Ceea ce se vede in poza de mai sus inscriptionat cu “Their name liveth for evermore”, se numeste in engleza “Stone of Remembrance”. 


Din ce am inteles, fara sa am pretentia ca am dreptate:
Piatra asta ar exista in toate cimitirele militare, din primul si al doilea razboi modial, care contin cel putin 1000 de soldati ingropati, apartinand statelor din Commonwealth.
Inscriptia de pe piatra apartine lui Rudyard Kipling, si deriva dintr-un citat biblic. Kipling insusi s-a implicat in construirea acestor cimitire, avand un fiu care a murit in primul razboi mondial.
Forma s-a dorit a fi una abstracta si ar simboliza un altar sau un sarcofag, fara a face vreo diferenta intre diversele confesiuni religioase.

 

Cateva pietre funerare.

 

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Mai multe detalii despre acest cimitir militar:

http://www.cwgc.org/find-a-cemetery/cemetery/68703/SHRAPNEL%20VALLEY%20CEMETERY

 

Imediat se ajunge la ANZAC Cove.

 

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Aici au debarcat, la 25.04.1915 australienii si neo-zeelandezii, se pare ca dintr-o gresala de orientare, deoarece debaracarea era planuita undeva mai la sud.
Tot aici, la fiecare 25 aprilie, se aduna cu miile baietii din emisefera sudica pentru a-si comemora eroii si, dupa cum spun ei, pentru a da continuitate legendei ANZAC, nascuta chiar in zona asta.

 

Cam asa arata zona din lateral.

 

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Se observa cum australienii si neo-zeelandezi de la nivelul marii, au incercat sa-i casapeasca pe turcii care se aflau in varful dealurilor de langa tarm.

Sau, dupa cum spunea neo-zeelandezul din Chios “Bloddy British …”.

 

Langa ANZAC Cove, cuvintele lui Ataturk, care fac parte din ceea ce am numi azi o “scrisoare deschisa” adresata in anul 1934 mamelor din Australia si Noua Zeelanda ai caror fii au murit in peninsula Gallipoli.

 

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Comentariile nu au rost. Doar ca am inteles ca un monument similar ar exista si la Auckland, in Noua Zeelanda. 

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Sambata, 08.10.2016 - Partea a II-a


Inapoi cativa km spre Kabatepe, unde la o intesectie se face stanga, si se intra pe un drum mai ingust cu sens unic.
Mi-a placut ideea asta a turcilor cu sensul unic, pentru a se crea un circuit si a evita formarea de blocaje in trafic, atunci cand este sezon turistic.


Se spune despre Campania de la Gallipoli ca ar fi fost ultima confruntare intre gentelmani, sau, desi pare ciudat, un razboi luptat cu fair-play.
Un exemplu este stauia de mai jos:

 

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Din cate am inteles, povestea statuii, ar fi ca in timpul luptelor, un australian ranit urla de durere intre transee (no man’s land) si la un moment dat, un turc a scos steagul alb, lupta a incetat temporar, turcul l-a carat in brate, catre transeele australiene pe ranit, dupa care s-a intors la ai lui si lupta a continuat.


Lone Pine, alt cimitir militar australian.
 

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Unul dintre cimitirele militare turcesti, mai exact ansamblul monumental ridicat in memoria Regimentului de Infanterie 57, Divizia 19, comandata [atunci] de locotenent-colonelul Mustafa Kemal, uterior cunoscut sub numele de Ataturk.
 

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Regimentul 57 a fost prima unitate turceasca care a intrat in lupta in zorii zilei de 25.04.1915, impotriva trupelor ANZAC care tocmai debarcasera in ceea ce azi se numeste Golful ANZAC.
Ordinul lui Atarurk a fost simplu si la obiect:  "I am not ordering you to attack. I am ordering you to die. During the time before we die other forces and commanders will take our place".
Sursa informatiilor de mai sus: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/57th_Infantry_Regiment_Memorial


Husein Kacmaz, ultimul veteran turc al campaniei din Gallipoli. A murit in anul 1994 la varsta de 111 ani.
 

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Pentru ca tot am vorbit mai sus depsre fairplay.
 

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Vedere spre sudul peninsulei Gallipoli.
 

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Zona comemorativa comuna pentru turci si neo-zeelandezi.
 

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Statuia il infatiseaza pe Ataturk, iar cele 3 ghiulele de la baza statuii (langa catarg) marcheaza locul in care Ataturk a fost lovit de o schija iar viata i-a fost salvata de ceasul de buzunar.
 

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Coloana de piatra de langa Ataturk este ridicata in memoria neo-zeelandezilor.
 

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Vedere spre nordul peninsulei Gallipoli.
 

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Sâmbătă, 08.10.2016 – Partea a III-a

 

Zona de sud a peninsulei Gallipoli.

Cimitirul Militar Britanic Lancashire Landing.

 

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Si “Stone of Remembrance” despre care am vorbit mai sus.

 

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Dupa inscriptiile de pe pietrele funerare, se pare ca oamenii astia chiar credeau in ceea ce fac.
Nu cred ca propaganda a ajuns pana la epitafuri.

 

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Pe vremea când mecanizarea armatei era încă la început si când catârul era de baza pentru transport.

 

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Asta mi s-a parut a fi cel mai potrivit epitaf. Scurt, direct, fara vorba multa.

 

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Mai multe detalii despre cimitir:

http://www.cwgc.org/find-a-cemetery/cemetery/2000103/LANCASHIRE%20LANDING%20CEMETERY

 

Capul Helles, unde se alfa monumentul dedicat marinei britanice.

 

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Singurul (din cate stiu) cimitir militar francez din peninsula Gallipoli.

 

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Am lasat pentru final ansamblul monumental al turcilor, numit Memorialul Martirilor.

Intrarea se face prin cimitir.

 

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Parcelele cu morminte sunt impartite in functie de regiunile Turciei.

 

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Ataturk nu putea lipsi.

 

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Chiar pe malul marii este monumentul principal, inalt de vreo 40 de metri, compus din 4 coloane cu un acoperis intre ele.

 

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Vedere de la baza.

 

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Mai multe detalii:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/%C3%87anakkale_Martyrs%27_Memorial

 

Iar pentru final, un apus de soare in Egee.

 

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Sambata, 08.10.2016 - Partea a IV-a


Niste tentative de poze, la ceea ce am vazut nou in peninsula Gallipoli.
Unul dintre motivele pentru care am revenit in zona a fost noul muzeu de langa Kabatepe, ridicat probabil pentru a marca, anul trecut, centenarul campaniei din Gallipoli.


Intrarea in muzeu.
 

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Denumirea in limba turca.
 

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Traducerea in engleza: Canakkale Epic Promotion Center [sau cel putin asa scrie pe pliantul pe care l-am primit de la muzeu].


Intrarea costa 13 Lire [cam 3,5 Euro].
Muzeul este foarte tare, in sensul ca este o combinatie intre cinematograf si muzeu militar.


Vizita incepe cu trecere prin 11 sali de proiectie, in care sunt prezentate diverse momente din cadrul campaniei din Gallipoli, inclusiv prin tehnologie 3D [in cateva sali].
Majoritatea salilor de proiectie sunt organizate sub forma de diorama, cu transee, punte de vapor, etc iar filmul este prezentat, in fiecare sala pe un ecran destul de mare.


Filmele sunt vorbite in limba turca, insa pentru cei care nu o inteleg traducerea simultana este asigurata de un aparat similar cu un audio guide.
Un aparat mic cu niste casti, aparat pe care trebuie doar sa-l pornesti, sa-i alegi limba in care vrei sa-ti vorbeasca si sa-i setezi volumul.
In rest, schimbarea traducerii se face automat, in functie de sala in care te gasesti.


Dupa cele 11 sali de proiectie urmeaza muzeul militar propriu-zis, formatul clasic cu arme, uniforme, panouri informative, postere de propaganda, figuri din ceara, etc.
Inutil sa preciziez ca toate explicatiile sunt bilingve, in turca si engleza.
Pe scurt, un muzeu de recomandat.


In rest, muzeul are de toate, de la parcare generoasa la magazin de suveniruri, inclusiv moschee pentru barbati si femei.
 

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Drum "coala de hartie" in zona de nord a peninsulei. 
 

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Pana la acest drum se merge pe un drum de macadam, semnalizat ca "drum in lucru".


Un cimitir ridicat in memoria Jandarmerie otomane care a dat o mana de ajutor armatei.
 

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Cel mai tare a fost ca drumul "coala de hartie" se termina brusc, la vreo 200 de metri dupa cimitir.
 

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Vineri, 08.10.2016 – Partea a V-a

Pe costa de est a peninsulei, la vreo 5 km sud de Eceabat se află monumentului caporalului Seyit.

 

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Seyit era tunar al unui tun Krupp amplasat într-unul dintre forturile de pe malul vestic al strâmorii Dardanele.

În urma bombardamentului naval Aliat din 18.03.1915, tunului deservit de Seyit i-a fost distrusă macaraua care ridica obuzele, astfel încat turcii au crezut că tunul nu mai poate fi folosit.

Însă tunarul Seyit a fost de altă parere, asă că a încărcat singur tunul cu obuze, obuze care au lovit cel puţin o nava Aliată.

Partea foarte tare este că turcii încă nu s-au pus de acord cu greutate obuzelor pe care le-a încarcat Seyit, iar aceasta variază de la 140 la 276 kg.

 

Din motive de lipsa aparat foto, cateva poze de la Muzeul Militar din Istanbul (septembrie 2012).

 

mK-1mWH_kcQfkkGpStY16uJbqY5hsFBl6bedcxall1trjx3MWjNfJk8Av66tRwG87RPsCtnAgECOMcUuuooDQkg_Gw93mbtE-PQLdLlewJ8So_quXOOcGvxvSdCFSP4UkNDF-xAPvpqEhzl5S9NxMuyfukyTT1aEKVS-81OhEGJh3zZAt1fjxzQiEVjpzP1HuOiO27-lVQjh3Q1_cs6P-KoCZ1ESU_uskyuZxqtwmq13bo8ycCBhEX1wIQYKqt2hiI5wv2PZdXnrVG8qlPJGwgsqKXR1VG_AZRKLx7FAR8WN9pkTkjjQO4U99qS7rYmFDUIjiN0t9ff7j1njZnsLENSFdy2E0no101yLNy-6XD9jWWvJTUU2klDdJJmOd9IXzrdxhQC0ZMkP2jRK1tdBVv1lg6meNbAtLbKUR0napoalX4AvP3eOfTFSgUuRQbExBf1cYD5yeqgHKMNtrChkxAzCLE2HElH-muys16NGRAdXTjtA6YW6mVFLsdFMHbnyr2ZIz4ywQKCX-zPNkGCzDhthQ3YKeAWXt8fEx2asxSz8HrjsZPFTb_-D9xTopldwW2e3_wXJt3s7_MbE-rpYqNuRTxGJKlUG6E8X6_KQoUIv--G6=w1067-h800-no

 

0j1bZSsXnKPcocv8bpE5QWNCuup2kA-r4nDl-11DpyJ4mA3FouDFwMpBfiNe3MByLO33HQeiv5j80EaxRaeHyP19ciFBgOUAAj7ajMPtEl2TxwXIQvH_xULJ-yLiPIwtlFJRd-nX4c1djZqCdSduCJvW2GEfILTPNw-gv2aAumJXUnxcM8snLuJTkXY6Fjk7GBUwHCpa6EJazS5w6Ox-XUSnO7b1WmuKdVBX4owVCOeZ6BkUa421MhBOEbg_JLj0whXXC-hWaezB-mYwsQUJ2R4puj3B1bu1msJ1jHBfhgY__cwO-l8KgPWXVGybC7bj8fpdi-ju7xC7KIbVwkKFK5Xhgn8f-XysJndPXE3ZFkOU0eMYbvaqLCAoymwHo0kflhkzHXz4VNORG1fsFthLm83Bq9Yv0KBGqg9mzIGkRuK_a5TrWWPEir4Sete9KwKuWiXTddCzyJTkWzsDWUtfTQwfx5GI-JN8SqyCtIl0sR36UYTPNj9xg5loC0aNCObrpZIkcgPFdpQVO3Fyp7hnhURpJEF7Dev9oT9r8FqTU1cafIGhhT00cQJfYq4qFnbAE4RwQZ69F-ieivz6byg9HtgwX5iZ_zGoyGTabyi6yr0TIXrL=w603-h804-no

 

9MsXriFarlWlKnKEKVcNhVGTZyiyrYkhhPTRAqiZ7WnEhs3WSd6w2ZDi2uuP7lKRUkK-dcaWNFC6yNagHrhpSttEh0-p5VuZrOQb_DqVznh2jbyXwjXaS0NJYjUDttsVIYN7sCn0JJ6BnLpcADr0cQyYaw0wWnKcrAeDIgBbC04j7iQUV0DabLJhTP57ojiMGofL-4NTP27-FjGm74L4-q_vLRzt4lji9ZxkIu0KOjo5_BPtr5tVBeRwMcVW998QDa33fBSg5iEPBoKfurMws4ELB4s6jauDQR3muqwTuoZ8juD6hCWTK40hAMeqGgy9oaQla4Pix77XyMs0_yLFE3GKhnivPytHdHalMovxBhwmC2gFF7WbH6Y0xK9239_Wl1808F-AWZMz6gvyVznKRrt3MWIB7J4XRicqokVx7qXul5czCizo6QcERDOXk_-t9C6Yv5SOU5humlxu9DAtYFXR4UPfU8z8IjIXaPQurFZSCsDI42uTSoRs68yqdv3sX6rCZ76dXyRQVTALuOvEPA3A6ZAk9dbLo1ncPFs4_JnelmGZp2F7VNep65CQniJ25CiB1SyepffUShwbkYC5Bb5ZxKk0GZVH6NSq36iBQ5J5uw6K=w1067-h800-no

 

Mai multe despre Seyit:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Seyit_%C3%87abuk

Ulterior, acesta a devenit erou national şi a fost luat în primire de propaganda turcească, care a produs poveşti de genul “Seyit nu a ridicat doar un obuz ci a ridicat speranţele unei naţiuni”.

 

Din păcate pentru ei, turcii n-au apucat să se bucure prea mult de victoria obţinută (in ianuarie 1916) in peninsula Gallipoli.

În februarie 1916 ruşii au cucerit Erzurumul, apoi în aprilie Trabzonul.

În iunie 1916 a început Revolta Arabă, la finalul căreia turcii au pierdut Siria, Palestina şi Hejazul (partea vestică a Arabiei Saudite).

Apoi, Bagdadul a căzut şi el, cucerit de britanici în martie 1917.

 

În 1914, la începutul războiului turcii erau cu un picior în groapă, la final, în 1918 erau în groapă cu totul.

Au mai trebuit să treacă nişte ani până în octombrie 1922, când, sub comanda lui Ataturk turcii au eliberat Smyra (Izmirul de azi), marcând astfel finalul războiului lor de independenţă, luptat în principal împotriva grecilor.

 

Pentru final, celaltă bicicletă, cu care am fost în tura descrisa mai sus.

 

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Cam asta a fost.

Dacă are cineva vreo întrebare, cu cea mai mare plăcere.

 

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