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Hai noroc la toată lumea.

 

Povestea este din septembrie 2013, aşa că îmi cer scuze anticipat dacă unele lucruri (sper că nu prea multe) s-au mai schimbat de atunci.

Bosnia era o ţară pe care vroiam de mult timp să o văd şi care mi-a plăcut le nebunie.

Pe scurt, mi s-a părut o combinaţie între Serbia şi Turcia cu puţine accente croate. Ideal, din punctul meu subiectiv de vedere.

În afară de asta, mi s-a mi s-a parut cea mai buna concentrare in interiorul unei singure tari a ceea ce insemana Balcanii.

Am avut ocazia să văd majoritatea tărilor din Balcani, mai puţin Albania. Aş adauga Muntenegru pe care l-am văzut in septembrie 1998.

Astfel, daca cineva ar avea posibilitatea sa vada doar o singura tara din Balcani, atunci i-as recomanda Bosnia.

 

Nu in ultimul rand, introducerea in ceea ce priveste Bosnia exista aici, multumita disponibilitatii colegului @BogdanTimisoara

http://www.ciclism.ro/forums/topic/19207-cu-caiacul-prin-balcani-drina/

 

De data asta va o introducere, deoarece tara prezinta anumite particularitati, care o fac diferita de restul tarilor din zona.


Asadar, Bosnia – Hertegovina care apare azi pe harta a luat fiinta in baza acordului de pace de la Dayton (Ohio) din 21 noiembrie 1995, acord de pace mediat in principal de catre Statele Unite.
Acord de pace semnat intre Iugoslavia (Serbia si Muntenegru) reprezentata de Slobodan Milosevici, Croatia, reprezentata de Franjo Tudjman si Bosnia Hertegovina, reprezentata de Alia Izetbegovici.

La Dayton s-a semnat formal acel acord, odata cu incheierea negocierilor, iar la Paris, la 14 Decembrie 1995 s-a semnat intr-un cadru festiv.
Despre razboiul care a avut loc in Bosnia in perioada 1992 – 1995 nu insist acum.

Azi, Bosnia este impartita in doua entitati teritoriale distincte: 
Republika Srpsaka ,entitatea sarbeasca, care ocupa 49% din teritoriul tarii, cu capitala la Banja Luka;
Federatia Bosnia-Hertegovina (numita si Federatia Croato-Musulmana), entitatea croato-musulamana, care ocupa 51% din teritoriul tarii cu capitala la Sarajevo.

Delimitarea intre cele doua entitati teritoriale se observa mai bine pe harta de mai jos (luata de pe Wikipedia).

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Concret, pe teren nu exista niciun fel de demarcatie, granita, control, bariera etc atunci cand se trece dintr-o entitatea in alta.
 

Atunci cand se intra in Republika Srpsaka, exista indicatorul de mai jos (l-am vazut de fiecare data cand am intrat in Srpska).

 

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La intrarea in Federatie n-am observat sa existe vreun indicator distinct.

In rest, singurul reper concret este ca se schimba sunt alfabetele din chirilic (pentru Srpska) in latin (pentru Federatie) si invers.

Pe scurt, daca prima data scrie cu caractere chirilice, atunci este Republika Srpsaka.

 

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Daca prima data scrie cu caractere latine, atunci este Federatia.

 

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In cazul indicatoarelor de directionare, in Republica Srpska sunt bi-alfabetice.

 

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iar in Federatie am observat ca erau scrise doar in latine.

 

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Fiecare entitate teritoriala are propriul presedinte, guvern, parlament, forta de politie sau serviciu postal.

Peste cele doua entitati teritoriale, la nivel central exista Guvern, Parlament, Presedentie, etc.

Particularitati (ca sa nu le numesc ciudatenii) ale Bosniei.

Federatia este impartita la randul ei in 10 cantoane, iar cantoanele sunt impartite in municipalitati.
Se observa mai bine in poza de mai jos.

 

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De la randul de sus catre cel de jos:
Bosnia Hertegovina
Federatia Bosnia Hertegovina
Cantonul Sarajevo
Municipalitatea Stari Grad (Orasul Vechi)


De asemenea, cantoanele au fiecare cate un guvern propriu.
Exemplu, ministerul de finanate al cantonului Sarajevo.

 

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In Republika Srpsaka situatia este mai simpla, in sensul ca aici nu mai exista cantoane, ci doar municipalitati.

Presedentia Bosniei este colectiva si rotativa, in sensul ca are 3 (trei) presedinti, respectiv un sarb, un croat si un musulman.
Impreuna cei 3 presedinti au un mandat de 4 ani iar rotatia lor la exercitatea mandatului se face la fiecare 8 luni.

Moneda Bosniei se numeste Konvertibila Marka (Marca Convertibila), si fiecare dintre cele doua entitati are drept de a bate moneda.
Drept pentru care, fata celui de pe bancnota difera. 
La fel ca si la indicatoarele rutiere, daca este prima data scris in chirilice, atunci a fost tiparita in Republica Srpska si invers in cazul Federatiei.
Nu stiu daca este diferenta si in cazul monedelor.

50 de marci convertibile, cea de sus fiind din Republica Srpska.

 

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Anunturile mortuare de pe strada, scrise in functie de religia decedatului.

 

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Iar cea mai tare este inscriptia de pe pachetul de tigari.

 

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Textul scris pe pachetul de tigari este in 3 limbi: bosniaca, croata si sarba (in chirilice)
Insa, se observa cu usurinta ca textul scris in cele 3 limbi este identic (inclusiv cel in chirilice).

Ceva simiar n-am mai vazut.
Cel putin pana acum, Canada mi se parea o tara ciudata deoarece acolo totul este scris in engleza si franceza (inclusiv pe pachetul de tigari), cu toate ca franceza se vorbeste doar in Quebec.

 

 

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Am intrat in Bosnia din Serbia, pe la Ljubovija, traversand raul Drina.


La iesirea din Serbia, domna politist de frontiera, m-a intrebat in sarbeste daca vorbesc sarbeste. I-am spus ca nu, iar ea m-a intrebat intr-o engleza perfecta care este data nasterii.
I-am aratat pe CNP cifrele care reprezinta data nasterii, iar ea mi-a multumit si mi-a spus ca totul este in regula.

Intrarea in Bosnia a fost OK, bosniacul s-a uitata doar la buletin si Cartea Verde, dupa care, fara sa fi scos vreun cuvant, mi-a facut semn ca pot pleca.
Asadar, se poate intra in Bosnia cu buletinul fara niciun fel de problema.

Prima oprire din Bosnia a fost la Memorialul si Cimitirul musulman de la Srebrenica – Potocari.

 

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Concret, Memorialul se afla la cativa km sud de orasul Bratunac, primul oras din Bosnia dupa granita cu Serbia.
Practic in orasul Srebrenica n-am fost.

Pe scurt, depre masacrul ceea ce a ramas in istorie ca genocidul de la Srebrenica.
In aprilie 1992 a inceput razboilul in fosta republica iugoslava Bosnia – Hertegovina.
Printre alte obiective, sarbii bosniaci doreau unirea teritoriilor locuite de ei cu Serbia si desfiintarea granitei de pe raul Drina.
Insa in zona vaii Drinei exista niste enclave cu populatie majoritar musulmana, care bineinteles nu era de acord cu planurile sarbesti de unire.

Initial encalava (zona orasului) Sreberenica o fost ocupat de catre sarbii bosniaci, apoi re-ocupat de catre armata bosniaca.
Sarbii bosniaci (probabil cu ajutor din partea Armatei Federale Iugoslave) au trecut la asediul orasului, iar armata bosniaca la atacarea satelor sarbesti invecinate.

Intr-o incercare de a calma situatia, in aprilie 1993 orasele Srebrenica, Zepa si Gorajde au intrat sub protectia Natiunile Unite (O.N.U) ca encalve de-militarizate, fiind printre putinele zone controlate de catre guvernul bosniac in estul Bosniei.

Insa, Prezenta Natiunilor Unite nu i-a impiedicat pe sarbii bosniaci sa-si vada de treba lor si sa se ocupe de purificarea etnica a zonei.
In iulie 1995, Srebrenica a fost din nou ocupata de sarbii bosniaci (Armata Republicii Srpska), iar ceea ce a urmat este considerat cel mai mare masacru din Europa de dupa cel de-al Doilea Razboi Mondial.

Ulterior, Castile Albastre (la Srebrenica erau formate din olandezi) au fost acuzate de pasivitate datorita faptului ca nu au intervenit.
Aici problema este mai complicata, deoarece apoximativ 30 soldati olandezi erau tinuti prizonieri de catre sarbii bosniaci, plus ca au existat niste erori in comunicare cu cartierul general O.N.U. de la Sarajevo.

Peste 8.000 de barbati musulmani apti de lupta (cu varsta cuprinsa intre aproximativ 15 si 70 de ani) au fost omorati.
Se pare ca femeile, copii si barbatii ne-apti de lupta au fost evacuati (de catre sarbii bosniaci) din zona.
Ca in orice subiect similar, informatiile sunt contradictorii, pornind de la faptul ca sarbii bosniaci au omorat inclusiv nou nascuti bosniaci (musulmani) si terminand cu o cifra de peste 10.000 de victime.

Ulterior, atat Republica Srpska cat si Serbia (prin Parlament si Presedinte) si-au cerut scuze pentru masacrul de la Srebrenica.

Revenind la Memorialul de la Potocari.

Placa comemorativa, pe care este scris “Iulie 1995”.

 

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Spatiu acoperit, care face trimitere la o moschee.

 

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In interiorul moscheii stilizate, de la stanga la dreapta mihrab-ul si mimbar-ul.

Mihrab – oarecum similar cu altarul din bisericile crestine, indica directia Meccai.
Mimbar - oarecum similar cu amvonul din bisericile crestine.

 

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Numele celor care sunt ingropati in acest cimitir, 

 

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Incrusate in ordine alfatebtica pe niste blocuri de marmura, dispuse in semicerc.

 

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Apel pentru generatiile viitoare.

 

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Cimitirul musulman propriu-zis.

 

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Piatra funerara musulmana.

 

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Morminte care inca nu au o piatra funerara.

 

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Cum ar fi cel al lui Yusuf, care avea doar 15 ani in 1995.

 

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Fantana pentru spalatul picioarele, asa cum exista in curtea majoritatii moscheilor.

 

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La final, exista blocul de piatra de mai jos.

 

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Pe care scrie foarte clar, de doua ori, ca numarul victimelor (8372) nu este cel final.
Orasele enumerate banuisc ca sunt orasele de origine ale celor care au murit in zona Srebrenica.

Mai exista o mica sala de expozitii / conferinte.

 

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La intrarea in sala exista un computer cu ecran touch-screen, probabil pentru identificarea mormantului in functie de numele celui care il ocupa.

 

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Vis-a-vis de Centrul Memorial se afla (daca nu mai insel) o fosta fabrica care a servit drept cazarma pentru olandezii din castile albastre.

 

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In iulie 2015, la comemorarea a 20 de ani de la evenimentele de la Srebrenica a fost prezent si premietul Serbiei, Alexadar Vucic. A fost primit cu pietre de catre o parte a celor prezenti la comemorare, fapt condamnat de intreaga comunitate internationala.

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Sarajevo

 

Primul muzeu vazut in Sarajevo a fost muzeul de istorie al Bosniei-Hertegovina.

 

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Ca punct de reper pentru a gasi muzeul este ambasaba Statelor Unite, o cazemata asa cum le place americanilor sa construiasca.

 

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Muzeul este situat peste drum de ambasada.
L-am intreabat pe vatman de ambasada SUA, iar omu’ foarte de treaba ne-a spus (in engleza) ca ne anunta el cand trebuie sa coboram. Frumos din partea lui.


Prin muzeu.

Portretul lui Tito, scos de la naftalina la demonstatia pentru pace din 04.04.1992. Din pacate, aceea demonstratie pentru pace n-a avut niciun efect.

 

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La Sarajevo am aflat ca la Conferinta de la Teheran din 1943, aliatii au luat hotararea sustinerii partizanilor lui Tito (in detrimentul cetnicilor condusi de generalul Draja Mihailovici).

 

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Partizanii lui Tito erau comunisti, iar cetnicii lui Mihailovici erau regalisti si implicit anti-comunisti.
Principala preocupare a cetnicilor si partizanilor era sa se bata intre ei, iar pe plan secundar era lupta cu trupele germane de ocupatie.

Tito, pe vremea cand era luptator de gherila.

 

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Atunci cand au interese comune (cum ar fi lupta impotriva partizanilor lui Tito) sarbii si croatii se inteleg foarte bine (va mai exista un exemplu similar, in perioada mai apropiata).

 

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Cetnicii sunt cei cu caciuli negre, Ustasa = nazistii croati iar domobranii = nazistii sloveni (dupa alte surse ar fi fost tot niste nazisti croati).

Stema Regatului Iugoslaviei (in perioada 1918 – 1929 s-a numit Regatul Sarbilor, Croatilor si Slovenilor).

 

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O stema similara exista si in cimitirul ortodox din Medgidia, unde se afla Piramida Eroilor Sarbi.
Monument ridicat in memoria voluntarilor sarbi, croati, sloveni, muntenegreni care au luptat in Dobrogea, alaturi de armata romana in anul 1916.
Se pare ca este cel mai important monument militar sarbesc din afara Serbiei.

Mai multe detalii:

http://www.ciclism.ro/forums/topic/14202-canalul-dunare-%E2%80%93-marea-neagra/?do=findComment&comment=562046

 

Stema Republicii Socialiste Federative Bosnia-Hertegovina.

 

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Gavrilo Princip, sarbul care (se spune ca) a declansat primul razboi mondial. Voi detalia mai tarziu acest subiect.

 

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Marele vizir Mehmet Pasa Sokolovici, cel care a ordonat construirea podului (peste raul Drina) de la Visegrad. Vom ajunge si acolo, spre sfarsitul povestii.

 

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Sarajevo – Partea a II-a

Urmeaza partea despre viata de zi cu zi in Sarajevo in timpul asediului, asediu care a avut loc in perioada 1992 – 1995.
Practic, orasul a fost inconjurat de fortele sarbesti, cu exceptia aeroportului care era controlat de trupele O.N.U.
Va fi mai tarziu o harta in care se va vedea mai bine despre ce a fost vorba.

La intrarea in expozitie.

 

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Afis sugestiv.

 

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Lansator de grenade, folosit de catre cei asediati.

 

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Primele uniforme ale armatei bosniace, inclusiv baschetii din dotare.

 

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Fabrica de tigari din Sarajevo a continuat sa functioneze in timpul asediului.

 

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Si marfa produsa in timpul asediului.

 

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Indicator care devenise ceva obisnuit in aceea perioada in Sarajevo.

 

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Traducerea: “Atentie – lunetist

Unoeri, singura modalitate de a traversa stada in siguranta era la umbra vehiculelor blindate ale Natiunilor Unite.
Initial era o aventura.

 

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Apoi, a devenit ceva obisnuit.

 

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Unul dintre principalele bulevarde din Sarajevo, numit Zmaja od Bosne (Dragonul Bosniei), care face legatura intre zona industriala/aeroport si centrul/zona veche a orasului capatase denumirea de Aleea Lunetistilor (Sniper Alley in engleza).

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Sarajevo – Partea a III-a

 

Aparatul care a asigurat, pentru cateva luni in anul 1992, singurul mijloc de comunicatie intre presedentia Bosniei si restul Lumii.

 

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Sterilizator care functiona cu combustibil solid.

 

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Taraba din piata (agro-alimentara) Merkale, in timpul asediului (voi detalia mai tarziu despre acesta piata).

 

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Pe taraba se distingeau conservele din carne de vita, primite de la Uniunea Europeana

 

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si conservele din carne de oaie, primite de la Islamic Relief.

 

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Islamic Relief = ONG britanic, care ajuta pe oricine, indiferent de religie.
Halal = permisiv, mancare care corespunde perceptelor islamice.

 

Diverse instalatii pentru gatit/incalzit locuinta.

 

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Bucataria devenise multifunctionala in timpul asediului.

 

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Din punctul de vedere al multifunctionalitatii, parca seamana cu o bucatarie din Romania sfarsitului anilor ’80.

 

Instalatie de iluminat.

 

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Poate mi-a scapat, insa n-am vazut in muzeu nicio poza de la concursul Miss Sarajevo din anul 1993.
Concurs tinut intr-un subsol al orasului asediat, cu concurentele in costum de baie afisand un banner pe care scria (direct in engleza) “Don’ let them kill us”.

Concurs care a inspirat piesa “Miss Sarajevo” cantata de U2 si Pavarotti.

 

Adica asta.

 

 

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Sarajevo, Partea a IV-a

 

Din muzeu nu putea lipsi Radovan Karadzic (liderul politic al sarbilor bosniaci)

 

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si Ratko Mladici, liderul militar al sarbilor bosniaci.

 

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In prezent, ambii se afla in Olanda, la Haga, in custodia Tribunalului Penal International pentru Fosta Iugoslavie, unde procesele lor sunt in desfasurare.


Ambii au fost arestati pe teritoriul Serbiei si de acolo trimisi la Haga. Mult timp Serbia a sustinut ca nu stie nimic despre ei si ca ii cauta, pe propriul teritoriu, insa nu ii gaseste.
Iar recompensa pusa pe capul lor, se pare ca guvernul sarb a dat-o familiilor celor doi arestati.

Chiar in fata muzeului.

 

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In spatele muzeului, printre alte exponate.

 

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Monumentul conservei (ajutor primit de la UE in timpul asediului).

 

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Alaturi de muzeul de istorie se afla Muzeul National al Bosniei-Hertegovina.

 

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Din cate am inteles, atunci (septembrie 2013) muzeul este inchis datorita faptului ca comunitatea sarba nu este de acord cu denumirea, mai exact cu sintagama “national” din numele muzeului.

Azi vad ca problema s-a rezolvat si ca muzeul este deschis.

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Sarajevo – Partea a V-a

 

Unul dintre muzeele pe care vroiam neaparat sa-l vad in Sarajevo era cel dedicat tunelului sapat pe sub pista aeroportului, tunel prin care orasul a fost aprovizionat in timpul asediului.

Muzeul este cam departe fata de centrul orasului, undeva in zona aeroportului.
Stiam deja ca taximetristii sunt cam tepari, asa ca am renuntat la ideea taxiului.
Cu transportul in comun era destul de complicat de ajuns, datorita distantei mari si necesitatii de a schimba mai multe mijloace de transport, plus niste mers pe jos.

Asa ca, la recomandarea Lonely Planet, am apelat la serviciile unei agentii de turism care oferea un tur organizat catre muzeul tunelului. Si nu ne-a parut rau.


Turul costa 15 euro de persoana, dureaza vreo 2 ore si include: transport la muzeu si inapoi in centrul orasului, intrare in muzeu si ghid (in engleza) pe toata perioada turului.
Agentia de turism: http://www.sarajevoinsider.com/index.php#tours

 

Ghidul era un tip tanar, glumet si fluent in engleza. Intreba de nationalitatea fiecaruia apoi facea o gluma sau punea o intrebare legata de tara din care venea cel intrabat.

De exemplu, pe niste englezi i-a intrebat ce mai face “baby king” (aluzie la Prinţul George de Cambridge, nascut doar cu cateva luni inainte).

Cand a ajuns la noi si i-am spus Romania, omului i-a cam disparut zambetul de pe fata, nu ne-a intrebat nimic si a trecut rapid la urmatorii, parca niste olandezi.

 

Revenind la tur, acesta incepe in strada, in fata agentiei. cu prezentarea hartii din timpul asediului.
Dupa cum se poate observa, la baza, este harta din timpul Jocurilor Olimpice de Iarna desfasurate la Sarajevo in anul 1984.

 

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Apoi se pleaca cu un microbuz (Mercedes parca) spre muzeu.
Pe drum, ghidul bosniac vorbeste tot timpul si povesteste lucruri interesante legate de oras, asediu, perioada actuala, etc.

Dureaza vreo 20 de minute pana se ajunge la muzeu.

Muzeul propriu-zis este o casa normala, prin pivnita careia se sapase una dintre intrari in tunelul lung de 800 de metri.
Vedere din strada.

 

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Casa acum este situata pe strada Tunelului, la nr. 1.

 

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Inscriptie de pe casa.

 

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Inainte de a intra in cei 20 de metri de tunel care sunt vizitabili, se vizioneaza un film de vreo 15 minute, dedicat asediului orasului.

Intrarea in tunel.

 

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Tunelul propriu-zis.

 

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La etajul casei se afla un mic muzeu militar.
Printre altele, scaunul cu care presedintele Bosniei (Alija Izetbegovici) era transportat prin tunel. De mentionat ca Izetbegovici a ales sa stea la Sarajevo in timpul asediului.

 

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Banda adeziva lipita pe geamuri, pentru a minimiza pagubele provocate de suflul unei eventuale explozii.
Aceiasi banda adeziva o foloseau si sarbii in 1999 cand erau bombardati de catre NATO, banda denumita “Windows 99”.

 

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Din muzeu am iesit printre primii si m-am retras la o tigara mai spre fundul curtii. Cu toate astea, ghidul a venit pana la noi si ne-a mai intrebat odata ceva de genul “voi ziceti ca sunteti din Romania”.

I-am raspuns zambind iar omu’ n-a mai zis nimic, desi eram foarte curios de ce ar putea sa intrebe.

 

Pe drumul de intoarcere, explicatiile ghidului au continuat cu teorii interesante.
Cum ar fi aceea ca fortele sarbesti care asediau orasul stiau de existenta tunelului si cu toate astea nu au facut nimic pentru a-l distruge.
Motivul: asediul orasului Sarajevo sa continue, atentia presei si implicit a opiniei publice internationale sa fie concentrata la Sarajevo.
Scopul: sarbii se se ocupe linistiti de purificarea etnica din estul Bosniei.

Ghidul a tinut sa precizeze ca acesta este doar o ipoteza.

 

Inapoi in Sarajevo, pauza de masa. Placinte cu branza si dovleac, insa ultima avea un gust cam ciudat.

 

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Fara arme in moschee.

 

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Pauza printre sahisti.

 

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Fabrica de bere din Sarajevo, una dintre cele mai importante cladiri ramase de la Imperiul Austo-Ungar.

 

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@BogdanTimisoara

 

Multumesc pentru completare.

Ajungem si la Mostar, spre finalul povestii.

 

 

Sarajevo – Partea a VI-a

 

Muzeul Alija Izetbegovici (primul presedinte al Bosniei independente),

 

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este amenajat in interiorul unui fort, in doua turnuri. 

 

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Obiecte personale care au aprtinut lui Izetbegovici.

 

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O fotografie rara, cu presedentia colectiva a Iugoslaviei, undeva pe la inceputul anilor ’90.

 

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De la stanga la dreapta: Milan Kucan (Slovenia), Kiro Gligorov (Macedonia), Alija Izetbegovici (Bosnia), Franjo Tudjman (Croatia), Momir Bulatovici (Muntenegru) si Slobodan Milosevici (Serbia)

Pasaportul cu numarul 257.

 

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Semnarea la Paris a acordului de pace negociat la Dayton.

 

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Din cugetarile lui Izetbegovici.

 

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Despre Serbia Mare.

 

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Pentru ca tot am vorbit despre Serbia Mare, cam asa arata in viziunea unor extremisti sarbi (poza de pe Wikipedia).

 

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Funeraliile lui Izetbegovici.

 

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Arkan (Zeljko Raznatovici) este si el prezent in muzeul dedicat lui Izetbegovici.

 

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Arkan a fost hot, criminal, sef de galerie la Steaua Rosie Belgrad si lider al unei grupari paramilitare sarbesti denumita “Tigrii lui Arkan”, grupare care a dat o mana de ajutor la purificarea etnica din Bosnia si posibil in Kosovo.

A fost asasinat la 15.01.2000 in holul hotelului InterContinental din Belgrad si nici pana azi nu se stie clarcine a stat in spatele asasinarii lui Arkan.
Unele zvonuri spun ca serviciile secrete sarbesti l-au lichidat, la ordinul lui Milosevici, pentru ca Arkan stia prea multe despre razboaiele din fosta Iugoslavie, inclusiv Kosovo.
Si ca ceea ce stia Arkan nu ar fi trebuit sa ajunga la Tribunalul Penal International.

 

Specific zonei balcanice, pentru unii este un criminal iar pentru altii este erou national.


Si un amanunt interesant: mama lui Arkan i-a facut un tort lui Miodrag Belodedici de ziua lui, pe vremea cand acesta juca la Steaua Rosie Belgrad (din cate stiu, Belodedici este primul fotbalist care a castiga Cupa Campionilor cu doua echipe diferite, respectiv Steaua Bucuresti in 1986 si  Steaua Roşie Belgrad in 1991).

 

Despre intelegerea dintre Milosevici si Tudjman privind impartirea Bosniei intre Serbia si Croatia.

 

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Una dintre beretele purtate de catre Izetbegovici si epoletii de comandat suprem ai acestuia.

 

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Mormantul lui Izetbegovici, cu garda de onoare, in cimitirul de langa muzeu.

 

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Sunt convins ca tot ce ai vazut acolo te-a marcat profund. Si pe mine. Si toti acei ani in care ni s-au prezentat unilateral toate conflictele din fosta Yugoslavie. 

Dupa ce am vazut prima data Vukovarul, i-am urat pe sarbi (fara sa stiu ca acele teritorii au apartinut in mod traditional Serbiei insa le-au fost smulse prin decizii politice).

Si totusi, trebuie sa tii cont ca e doar o latura a adevarului. Si mai ales ca radacinile acestor conflicte sunt foarte foarte vechi. Nimic nu a fost cu sens unic. Eu am cunoscut sarbi refugiati (a se citi epurati etnic) din Mostar. Oameni care au fugit din Mostar doar cu propria viata si cu un pasaport fals care i-a costat totul, absolut tot ce aveau pe acel pamant. Nu am prea pus intrebari, am primit putinul care mi-a fost povestit cu lacrimi in ochi. Am intrebat doar daca au pierdut membri ai familiei sau prieteni apropiati. Raspunsul foarte sec a fost "Da" iar din ton am simtit ca nu trebuie sa mai scormonesc in acea cutie cu amintiri. 

Crede-ma ca nici povestile lor nu sunt mai putin impresionante. 

Nu vreau sa iau apararea sarbilor, ceea ce s-a intamplat la Sarajevo, Srebrenita, Mostar, nu ar putea fi explicat, justificat sau scuzat in vreun fel. Dar daca schimbi perspectiva, se vede totul si in alta lumina. 

Am auzit si perspectiva croata, despre cum bosniecii si muntenegrenii au jefuit cu mult zel Croatia in timpul razboiului yugoslavo - croat, dand o mana de ajutor armatelor yugoslave.

 

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On 1/27/2017 at 12:44, BogdanTimisoara said:

Sunt convins ca tot ce ai vazut acolo te-a marcat profund.

 

Am vazut multe lucruri interesante in Bosnia, insa niciunul dintre ele nu m-a marcat profund.

Stiam unde ma duc, stiam despre ce era vorba si se ce intamplase pe acolo. Plus ca am citit cate ceva despre Bosnia si fosta Iugoslavie inainte sa plec de acasa.

Una dintre cele mai interesante carti a fost "To end a war" autor Richard Holbrooke, adica cel care a condus echipa de negociatori americani care pana la urma a rezolvat pacea din Bosnia prin acordul de la Dayton. Europa doar a frecat-o aiurea ani intregi si pana la urma tot America a trebuit sa se implice si sa rezolve problema.

 

In rest, in ceea ce priveste fosta Iugoslavie, adevarul este undeva la mijoc si nu se pune problema de baietii buni si baietii rai sau de privit situatia doar dintr-o anumita parte.

Toti au avut idiotii si moderatii lor si toti au partea lor de vina.

 

Din pacate, au fost niste razboaie fara castigator, toti au pierdut. In special populatia civila, indiferent de nationalitate sau religie.

 

 

Sarajevo - Partea a VII-a


Fosta primarie a orasului Sarajevo, acum Biblioteca Nationala a Bosniei.
Cea mai importanta constructie ridicata de austrieci in oras. A fost distrusa in timpul asediului, acum este total refacuta.

 

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Moscheea Imparatului (Emperor’s mosque in engleza) a fost prima moschee construita in Sarajevo (in 1457) dupa cucerirea otomana.
Este dedicata sultanului Mohamed Cuceritorul (cel care a cucerit Constantinopolul).
Interiorul moscheii.

 

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Cupola.

 

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Nisa de colt.

 

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Cimitirul din curtea moscheii.

 

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Tramvaiele in Sarajevo, daca nu ma insel marca Tatra, model T3.

 

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Raul care trece prin Sarajevo se numeste Miljacka.
Spre amonte.

 

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Spre aval.

 

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Alt reper din Sarajevo este podul Latin, langa care a fost asasinat Frantz Ferdinand la 28.06. 1914.
 

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în urmă cu 10 ore, gibonu said:

Din pacate, au fost niste razboaie fara castigator, toti au pierdut. In special populatia civila, indiferent de nationalitate sau religie.

 

 

 

Exact asta voiam si eu sa zic.

A fost un razboi ciudat si atipic, alimentat din interior si negociat de interese interlope. Adica interlopii locali din cele doua "tabere" faceau negot cu munitie si alimentau in permanenta ostilitatile. Faceau negot intre ei, se facea schimb de munitie de la o tabara la alta, astfel incat focul sa nu inceteze. O afacere profitabila.

Au pierdut toti. Yugoslavia era mult inaintea celorlalte tari din blocul rasaritean iar acum... Cu exceptia Sloveniei (partial si a Croatiei) au ramas mult in urma.

Si nu mi se pare deloc intamplator ca fiecare stat rezultat are investitii preponderent din cate un stat dezvoltat. Asta poate conduce la ideea ca dezmembrarea Yugoslaviei a avut (si) ratiuni economice externe, mai presus de vointa locala si de diferendele etnice sau religioase.

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@BogdanTimisoara

 

Referitor la arme, pe langa cele tranzactionate in interior, mai erau si cele pe care bosniacii le primeau din Arabia Saudita si Iran.
Cel mai tare era ca acele arme ajungeau la ei prin porturile croate de la Adriatica, cat timp exista conflictul dintre Bosnia si Croatia. 

Adica, daca n-am fost suficient de coerent, croatii lasau sa ajunga in Bosnia arme care ulterior erau indreptate impotriva lor. In plus, parte din acele arme le opreau croatii si nici nu le permiteau bosniacilor sa primeasca armament greu, cum ar fi tunuri sau obuze.


Referitor la cum nivelul de trai al Iugoslaviei anterior anul 1990, din cate stiu era cea mai dezvolatat tara din estul Europei, poate doar RDG-ul sa fi fost mai deazolvat.

Distrugerea Iugoslaviei a venit din exterior, idiotii locali doar au fost exploatati in acest sens. Plus ignoranta majoritatii americanilor carora li s-a spus ca oricum nimic nu poate fi facut, deoarece popoarele iugoslave se urasca de secole si macelarirea reciproca este sportul lor national.
Europa nu a contat, pentru ca oricum nu a fost in stare sa faca nimic.

 

Acum vreo 3 ani stateam de vorba cu un croat in Bucuresti. Omu' mi-a spus simplu, clar si concret "Ce n-a reusit Hitler a reusit Merkel. Acum noi suntem colonia Germanie la marea Adriatica".
Ca fapt divers, tot acel croat in varsta de aproximativ 30 de ani mi-a spus ca nu are absolut nicio problema sa vina in RO prin Serbia.

 

 

Sarajevo - Partea a VIII-a


Chiar langa podul Latin se afla Muzeul 1878 – 1918, adica perioada in care Bosnia a facut parte din imperiul Austro-Ungar.

 

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Harta imperiului, cu tot cu Bosnia.

 

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Congresul de Pace de la Berlin din vara anului 1878, Bosnia care isi schimba stapanul si binefacerile stapanirii austrice.

 

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Ocuparea propriu-zisa a Bosniei de catre trupele imperiale.

 

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Despre unitatile de elita bosniece din cadrul armatei austro-ungare.

 

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Arma cu care Gavrilo Princip l-a impuscat pe Franz Ferdinand si pe sotia acestuia Sofia.
Franz Ferdinand era mostenitorul tronului Imperiului Austro-Ungar, ca nepot de frate al imparatului Franz Josef.

 

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Din cate am inteles este o copie a armei pe care a folosit-o Princip, arma originala fiind expusa in muzeul militar din Viena.


Gavrilo Princip.

 

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Pentru unii terorist, pentru altii erou national, azi o strada din Belgrad ii poarta numele.

Princip era sarb bosniac, nascut in 1894 in Imperiul Austro-Ungar, la Obljaj, un sat in vestul Bosniei, langa orasul Bosansko Grahovo (cam 100 km nord de Split), azi in Federatia Croato-Musulmana.

In timpul Primului Razboi Balcani (1912) Princip avea 18 ani si a vrut sa se inroleze in cadrul unor forte paramilatare sarbe.
Insa a fost respins la inrolare, pe motivul ca este “prea mic si prea slab”.
Se pare ca respingerea de la inrolare a fost unul dintre motivele pentru care Princip s-a hotarat sa faca ceva maret. 

 

Cateva vorbe despre atentatul din 28.06. 1914.
Echipa era constituita din 6 atentatori, tinta fiind Franz Ferdinand. Conform planului, atentatorii trebuia sa foloseasca grenade.

 

Primul atentator i-a fost frica sa arunce grenada.
Al doilea atentaror a aruncat grenada, insa nu a tinut cont de faptul ca aceea grenada exploda cu o intarziere de 10 secunde.

Rezultatul: soferul care conducea masina in care era Franz Ferdinand a accelerat, asa ca grenada a avariat alta masina din coloana.
Dupa ce a aruncat grenada, atenataroul a incercat sa se sinucida, inghitind o doza de cianura si apoi s-a aruncat in raul Miljacka.
Insa, ghinion de nesansa, cianura era expirata asa ca nu si-a facut efectul dorit, iar raul Miljacka avea (ca si in ziua de azi) o adancime de 10 (zece) centimetri.
Asa ca n-a fost o problema pentru politie sa il aresteze.

 

Ulterior, Franz Ferdinad a decis sa mearga la spitalul din Sarajevo, pentru a-i vizita pe ranitii din cea de-a doua masina din coloana.
Insa, soferul lui Franz Ferdinad (un ceh, care nu a fost informat despre noua ruta) a gresit drumul spre spital, virand la dreapta acolo trebuia sa mearga inainte.
Soferul a realizat repede ca a gresit drumul, a franat si a inceput sa mearga cu spatele spre drumul bun, insa, se pare ca motorul masinii s-a oprit 

Spre norocul lui Princip era chiar in locul in care s-a oprit masina (azi acolo este Muzeul 1878 – 1918), a scos pistoul si cu doua focuri de arma i-a omorat pe Franz Ferdinad si pe sotia acestuia Sophie.


Apoi, Princip a incercat sa se sinucida, insa cianura expirata nu si-a facut efectul iar pistolul i-a fost smuls din mana.

Ulterior Princip a fost condamnat la 20 de ani de inchisoare.
Se pare ca legea austro-ungara prevedea ca varsta minima pentru a fi condamant la moarte era 20 de ani.
Iar Princip, in momentul comiterii atentatului mai avea aproape o luna pana la implinirea varstei de 20 de ani.
Princip a murit in aprilie 1918 in inchisoarea austriaca de la Terezin (azi in Cehia, la vreo 60 km nord de Praga), bolnav de tuberculoza.

 

Initial a fost ingropat intr-un mormant nemarcat, pentru a nu deveni loc de pelerinaj pentru nationalistii slavi.
Insa, un soldat ceh a tinut minte mormantul si in 1920 ramasitele lui Princip au fost dezhumate si aduse la Sarajevo.

Azi, Princip alaturi de alti conspiratori este ingropat in cimitirul sfantul Marcu din Sarajevo, in capela dedicata “Eroilor din ziua de Vidovdan”.

 

Ziua de Vidovdan = sarbatoarea Sfantului Vit care se tine la 28 iunie conform calendarului gregorian si la 15 iunie conform calendarului iulian (folosit inca de catre biserica ortodoxa sarba).
Pentru sarbi are o importanta deosebita, fiind ziua Batalie de la Kosovopojle (Campia Mierlei) din 1389.
Mai bine spus a infrangerii sarbesti de la Kosovopojle, in care printul sarb Lazar a murit in lupta iar sultanul otoman Murad I a fost omorat in cortul sau de catre cavalerul sarba Milos Obilic.

Asadar, se pare ca ziua in care Princip l-a asasinat pe Franz Ferdinand nu a fost aleasa intamplator.
Un amaunt interesant: peste ani, in 2001, in ziua de Vidovdan, Slobodan Milosevici a fost predat Tribunalului Penal International pentru Fosta Iugoslavie.

 

Revenind la muzeu, mulajul talpilor lui Princip, in momentul in care l-a asasinat pe Franz Ferdinand.

 

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Pana la inceputul anilor ’90 acest mulaj era in strada, in fata muzeului, exact in locul din care Princip a tras.
Cam asa arata (poza facuta in 1987 si luata de pe Wikipedia).

 

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Traducerea aproximativa a textului scris in chirilice (cu Google Translate):
Din acest loc, la 28 iunie 1914, Gavrilo Princip a manifestat viziunea protestului popular impotriva tiraniei si aspiratiile vechi de secole ale poporului nostru pentru liberate.”

Daca vreun vorbitor de sarba poate traduce corect ceea ce scrie in poza de mai sus, raman dator.

 

Azi, in locul in care Princip a tras se afla placa din poza de mai jos.
 

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Sarajevo – Partea a IX-a

 

Strada din cartierul turcesc din Sarajevo (mai mult o vrajeala pentru turisti).

 

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Muzeul evreiesc al Bosniei.

 

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Care are sediul in vechea sinagoga.

 

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Despre evreii din Sarajevo.

 

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Interiorul sinagogii.

 

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Cutit special cu care se prepara mancarea cuser.

 

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Reconstituirea unei bacanii evreiesti.

 

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Cativa dintre rabini din Sarajevo.

 

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Sarbatoarea de Yom Kipur.

 

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Catedrala romano-catolica din Sarajevo.
Se spune ca ar fi cel mai mare lacas de cult romano-catolic din Bosnia, insa am dubii in privinta asta. Voi detalia cand povestea va ajunge la Mostar.

 

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Poze din interiorul catedralei nu am, desi am intrat de doua ori inauntru.
Insa, prima data nu mai aveam baterie la aparat iar a doua oara este slujba.

 

Strada Ferhadia.

 

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sau (daca am inteles) bine, principala starada pietonala din Sarajevo.

 

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Pauza de-o cafea.
 

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In Sarajevo am cumparat o apa minerala intr-un butic, am vorbit in sarba (care in contextul dat a diferit de pronuntia bosniaca doar prin absenta unui "i" intr-un cuvant, ceva cam cum ai zice la noi "pane" in loc de "paine"). In rest, era evident pentru oricine ca sunt strain si ca abia scot din mine cateva cuvinte in limba cu pricina (care mai demult de chema sarbo-croata). Nu iti spun ce s-a burzuluit vanzatoarea la mine, m-a pus la punct si mi-a aruncat in sila restul. 

In Croatia nu am patit asa ceva, desi diferentele sunt mai mari si evident ca nu stiu sa folosesc pronuntia croata. Dimpotriva, ma felicita ca vorbesc croata si ma intreaba de unde am invatat-o (pe naiba, abia leg cateva cuvinte, dar oricum ei se bucura pentru efort). La inceput ii vedeam intristandu-se cand le ziceam ca de la Radio-Televizija Beograd. Asa ca nu mai spun asta, zic ca am fost mult in concedii prin zona si cu asta basta :)

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@BogdanTimisoara

 

Fineturile lingvistice nu le cunosc, insa dupa cum se vede pe pachetul de tigari din prima postare, imi pare aceiasi limba.

 

Referitor la limba, din cate stiu si fara pretentia ca am dreptate, acesta este cam aceiasi de la Skopje la Ljubliana, doar chirilicele macedonene sunt putin diferite fata de cele sarbesti.
Cert, in Serbia, Muntenegru, Croatia si Bosnia limba este aceiasi, cu mici diferente, cum ar fi conjugarea catorva verbe. Sau cel putin asa mi-a spus o gagica receptioner la Mostar.

Tot referitor la limba, un episod interesant a avut loc la Dayton, in timpul negocierilor de pace.
Americanii au montat in sala de conferinte 3 cabine pentru traducerea simultana, cate una pentru limba sarba, bosniaca si croata.
Insa acele 3 cabine erau deservite de un singur traducator. Membrii delegatiilor au sesizat aspectul asta, insa numeni n-a facut scandal.

 

 

Sarajevo – Partea a X-a


Unul dintre multele panouri de informare pentru turisti.

 

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Scris in 4 limbi (bosniaca ca sa nu spun sarbo-croata, engleza, germana si turca).

 

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Catedrala Ortodoxa “Nasterea Maicii Domului” este cea mai mare biserica sarbesca din Sarajevo si una dintre cele mai mari din Balcani.
Exteriorul.

 

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In interior, amvonul.
 

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Catapeteasma (sau iconostasul).

 

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Cupola.

 

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Vitralii.

 

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Fiind vorba despre biserica ortodoxa sarba, totul este scris in chirilice.

 

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Iar acatistul nu face exceptie.

 

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Lumanarile, puse pe niveluri diferite. Probabil asa se face departajarea intre cei in viata si cei care nu mai sunt.

 

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Denumirea catedralei si programul de functionare al acesteia, scris in sarba si engleza (scuze pentru calitatea pozei).

 

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In Slovenia limba este - din cate mi s-a zis - destul de diferita de sarbo-croata din restul fostei Yugoslavii. Sarbii mi-au zis ca se inteleg chiar greu cu slovenii si ca mai apropiata de sarba ar fi... slovaca.

In rest, cu privire la limba vorbita in celelalte state, diferente exista dar sunt minore, nici vorba sa fie atata de mari precum sunt intre dialectele unei limbi (nici pe departe cat de mari ar fi intre limba romana si aromana, macedo-romana sau megleno-romana). Mai degraba seamana cu diferentele dintre graiurile noastre, graiul moldovenesc vs. graiul ardelenesc. dar totusi ei le numesc limbi distincte. 

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@BogdanTimisoara

 

Posibil ca in Slovenia sa difere desi pana acum stiam ca nu era asa.

In plus, nu prea inteleg cum comunicau atunci cand inca exista R.S.F. Iugoslava, pentru ca mi-e greu sa cred ca veneau slovenii la Belgrad cu translatorul dupa ei.

 

In completare la poza cu pachetul de tigari, un site cu stiri din Balcani unde se vede foarte clar ca in Serbia, Croatia, Muntenegru si Bosnia se vorbeste aceiasi limba (partea de sus a paginii):

 

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Site-ul: http://www.balkaninsight.com/en/page/balkan-transitional-justice-home

 

 

 

Sarajevo – Partea a XI-a

 

Alt loc pe care vroiam neaparat sa-l vad in Sarajevo este piata Markale.

 

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Chiar daca azi arata ca piata Obor din Bucuresti inainte de modernizare, acesta piata este un loc important in istoria recenta a orasului.
Aceasta piata a fost bombardata, cu obuze de mortier, de doua ori in timpul asediului orasului.

Primul bombardament a fost la 05.02.1994, bilant 67 de victime.
Pentru comemorarea evenimentului, azi exista o placa in piata.

 

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Intr-o traducere aproximativa (Google translate):
In acest loc, la 05.02.1994 criminalii sarbi au omorat 67 dintre cetatenii orasului Sarajevo.
Compasiune si liniste pentru cei morti
Cititi Fatiha
Si rugati-va
Aducere aminte si rugaciune

Cetatenii orasului Sarajevo


Fatiha = primul capitol din Coran.

Initial, O.N.U. a sustinut ca acel obuz a fost tras de catre armata bosniaca.
Ulterior, s-a mai gandit putin si a spus ca, in lipsa unor dovezi clare, este posibil ca acel obuz sa fi fost lansat de catre oricare dintre parti (bosniacii sau sarbii bosniaci).
Chiar si un judecator (columbianul Rafael Nieto Navia) din cadrul Tribunalul Penal International pentru fosta Iugoslavie a sustinut ca, in lipsa unor dovezi clare, sarbii bosniaci nu pot fi acuzati ca ar fi lansat acel obuz.

Al doilea bombardament a avut loc in apropierea pietei Markale la 28.08.1995, bilant 43 de victime.
Placa comemorativa, identica cu cea din piata, doar numarul victimelor variaza.

 

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Fata de piata, aici mai exista si nominalizate numele celor 43 de victime.

 

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Ca si prima data, initial O.N.U. a sustinut ca nu se stie cine a tras, apoi s-a gandit mai bine si a ajuns la concluzia ca sarbii bosniaci sunt de vina.

Cert este ca dupa acest episode piata Markale a inceput, la 30.08.1995 operatiunea NATO de bombardare a pozitiilor sarbilor bosniaci, operatiune care a durat pana la 20.09.1995.
Cand operatiunea NATO a incetat, asediul sarbesc asupra orasului Sarajevo a fost ridicat si mai tarziu, in noiembrie au inceput negocierile de pace de la Dayton, finalizate prin semnarea acordului de pace la de Paris din 14.12.1995, care a pus capat razboilului din Bosnia.

Si mai important este faptul ca inca persista incertitudinea cu privire la cele doua momente “piata Markale”, deoarece este posibil ca armata bosniaca sa isi fi bombaradat proprii cetateni in scopul de a atrage atentia opinie publice internationale si nu in ultimul rand o interventie NATO.

Flacara eterna din Sarajevo, situata la cateva sute de metri fata de piata Markale.

 

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Monument ridicat in memoria victimelor civile si militare din Sarajevo, din timpul celui de-al doilea razboi mondial.
Si mai interesat este faptul ca pe inscriptia din spatele flacarii se vorbeste despre sangele varsat de bosniaci, sarbi, croati si muntenegreni in cadrul glorioasei Armate Iugoslave.
De asemenea, se mai vorbeste despre patriotii (din Sarajevo) sarbi, croati si musulmani.

Altfel spus, cateva sute de metri mai in spate (piata Markale) sarbii sunt criminali iar aici, langa flacara eterna sunt patrioti.

Langa flacara era Centrul Cultural Iranian.

 

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Nu-l puteam rata.
Am gasit o gramada de carti, bogat illustrate despre diverse regiuni din Iran. In plus, mai existau niste vase similare cu cele albastre din poza (de pe Wikipedia) de mai jos.

 

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Din pacate, acele vase nu erau de vanzare.

Deja suntem pe strada Maresalul Tito, una dintre cele mai importante strazi din Sarajevo, ca doar McDonald’s pe acesta strada este.

 

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Referitor la acesta strada, am inteles ca dupa decesul lui Alija Izetbegovici, comunitatea bosniaca a solicitat ca o parte din strada Maresalul Tito sa poate numele fostului presedinte, insa comunitatea sarba nu a fost de acord.

In memoria ziaristilor ucisi in timpul conflictelor din fosta Iugoslavie.

 

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Banca Centrala a Bosniei.

 

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Ca tot suntem pe strada maresalului Tito, la numarul 46.

 

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Spre Monumentul copiilor ucisi.

 

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Monumentul.

 

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Inscriptia de la baza (Google translate) = “In memoria copiilor ucisi in timpul asediului orasului Sarajevo in perioada 1992 – 1995

 

Mai de aproape.

 

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Am inteles ca simbolizeaza o mama care vrea sa isi protejeze copilul.

Langa monument, o lista a victimelor, inclusiv victime in varsta de 4 ani.

 

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In memoria soldatilor francezi, morti pentru Franta si pacea din Bosnia.

 

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Sarajevo – Partea a XII-a


Indicator rutier, scris doar cu caractele latine, semn ca suntem in Federatia Croato-Musulmana.
Mostar urmeaza, iar la Tuzla si Zenica n-am fost.

 

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Palatul in care stau cei trei presedinti ai Republicii.
 

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Moscheea Ali Pasa.
 

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Fantana de langa moschee.
 

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Nu departe de moscheea Ali Pasa se afla biserica romano-catolica Sfantul Iosif.
 

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Inauntru era slujba, asa ca n-am putut face poze.
Insa, am remarcat afisul de pe usa de la intrare, scris in multe limbi, inclusiv turca si araba.

 

YodfxC3Llma-5TvFsMM-Lnj7DU_eoldhSsvIYprqv-rQ_sq7jcFwI0yGBmm5enpeVTHNmQ0olqK9N4XDlpNBshTBb0uO0vtL_UrNWhiORSmKiY7F2AJa-aqizHM8XfJBUF3q_li06bzNr5KfofJSfowcNIU66jmL5eCTeoHaMRrm96a0nFAOjCGrEPMHDA5HFetnr0186CqZyRC21JptZQKNlVZuJNj7lJCBEtPm5JJlppo2vdHJsEC6B0VMWCVSma9gApNi0j1BabGt261bnIL77QCInJATvw_yOoVjVmKZeqyGKA-u_u-deEoYjT0K40MB_dzfjFshPLgSJkatMd-I_K7wKsv4hIH7vqgHsFr426OoFJriZAfeeZTcEdt4E7DDZHBIHi1ASstR5M6AW0L8VVE6_E_gQrJfXq-OOdz949GFKVB0vcyY4S7_QHOogNe4m1_GbO1JjyYH0KOKUM0lLwIw0sPK3voiWuZkcYLgYHTSxHfHzYvaY-FabNuO-o-o-qkJS_OrsJemfv2mLO4FohLzvAYbEFyXh9bOffkb9Kera_6QllfZ91UApZX2H3mX-gA5Er_6vUGzHPS71XZzjtCxduMLX_knxSbud9nZEUVVY7U0=w536-h638-no


Urmele asediului.
 

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Cladiri noi, unele dintre ele inca in constructie.
 

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Hotelul Holiday Inn.
 

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Si sigla Jocurilor Olimpice de Iarna din 1984 (editia a XIV-a), gazduite de catre Sarajevo.
Pana acum, sunt primele Jocuri Olimpice de Iarna organizate intr-o tara din Europa de Est.

 

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Hotelul Holiday Inn a fost construit special pentru aceste Jocuri.

Pe langa asta, in timpul asediului a fost singurul hotel din oras ca a ramas deschis si care a putut sa-i gazduiasca pe ziaristii straini.
Combustibilul pentru electricitate era cumparat de pe piata neagra din valuta provenita de la ziaristii straini, mancare adesea se gatea la foc deschis in bucatarie, apa calda aproape ca nu exista.
Insa, cu toate aceste neajunsuri, hotelul a functionat.

 

Se pare ca a existat un acord tacit intre guvernul bosniac si sarbii bosniaci care asediau orasul, acord prin care hotelul a scapat aproape neatins de obuzele sarbesti.

Ca si in cazul tunelului de sub pista aeroportului, sarbii care asediau orasul erau interesati ca ziaristii straini sa poata sta si relata din Sarajevo astfel incat atentia comunitatii internationale sa fie concentrata asupra orasului asediat.

 


 

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Sarajevo – Partea a XIII-a

 

Piata Bosnia-Hertegovina.

 

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Locul in care se afla sediul guvernului

 

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si al Parlamentului.

 

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9Uv2zxEm9sVRVhtGz-xFbUMSAPaYmFLD1M3MHwTny23uT9PllDXKLxU6-ZsDZxG6CBjy-a9Oi6xrIin0E_InqKDDNOv90tzsAHMdUbxSHhVt0oMnoPmYQO5F_nTKvFaLe-X0T8ZTSjoPGJHJEpQdl1-KZBHwnw6UMkTRjKxL1ORWINVjSfMynschm8FKFaneJBmO0LKtjnKub8VPDRDAqgG6yZOgshjtowb0mxCww31OVPUaQeTrsDq1RJvrw3CdvbrpshxfxbBxcsMjdU-M08nDY6ypE3ygd5cmvR3sBCl_tXaKL7V-oaShFz9A_Erlt6_gvPjFX00KKbFKlkUIvnKKU3Lk8yksOndt8SfD6Cq_A6OXbJx3ccDMmc3QJBfx40Qb_wmtbOzsexFXasPsfR6cBSD82irCJ0-_7ZJW3ljaRzV2cKh_TX3q-8dRK4wL4bobuvq42MZ02_cu0fPS2JkHKATqtasRBDlnk--LHnUuLI8hwFknXDiETd8YcEFf63EMsRHn4B16-2cG1ZESX47QQB3zXGG2oXTZqqiNdoRnLFN4IBnzuBqihN3JiURwgSwnE6I0nBaUejfyPfwdXgRQjO2I0JUJkpviTQ0KyFekzwDfeWgj=w1019-h701-no

 

Casa sindicatelor, probabil o amintire iugoslava.

 

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Muzeul de Arta (nu l-am vizitat).

 

OPNbwGEitPDGcGJj_7i5fUz6tosjLGoqCzw1BQ1ninwGtYNJMdH9Wr1nR513vhJ7iQfboi6gb-Pp4XgGND2laFSxEJwBpShGiMSaPJs2i50QUYQW79YeNH5LYar4QMYgporL6iUAuofH03mT74fXRYRJxDsmtg6kaJ93dhODQoAqgy3Qg8rMlR3dipw0mOS2RrjVpt4Vt2xpf1Q1aoctVGWrVplQOJPqL4_aAuc2lHffiuYGg6uWEhMOYUp5DjcFIpxCc_5xyRJwTGLe7ihOtlimp9Tv7wT8X51oXj4HgXb7DbmbFqMdyOr7mtq6DzEPrCuqGHClZP6SIM0-Nv5gjAn5SwvGpwdkPr68HE4cvo1f7IWmm3lhnmIOdnbM0Ia3q4Yhnscfh1uqZBChiS9xTEDnn2-sul7TfYk-woG3FGcjlORxDi_PIPw9_tOvNd03aTmoHByE6Ix1EUlrdkx4CxN2QDABs93yROpSL0lFz_9PYwWIx7pcMxRDim2wAVjHJlroLNL1i9K4HcKO1jlkimAhksr2sVgvJgAcD60YEsJwLmi-RKQ3W2GIvFanbUw80c9RpX_RZdN8Hrvr8-dJFqMT4HsszrfsJlcJ97JQdIsnxRjaGcmC=w1033-h709-no

 

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Podul din fata muzeului.

 

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Cina din seara respectiva – burta in sos tomat.

 

VBS78HUC3FD36v0mxBC3Om9AkWHVFgUjaDqUCsVAidrnqP_fVuEEGPc2MFqa_PZpppzwKFkgLjmyUgjNGHupclWPo7fU0w23mAS3dfyhaPbjShQXoCa55g2IldHZg6AcrOanHojcDMOUYQO7JS12hFK8GGdiN2VH9yXSI3y8LQrr-1RG3xsdg-R2vLtH6IIn1zmJg2vwkD63u53bKHKbSa6P7pIR3HABjAu_sNIMw4pigGhG7d-6Mv2SirQSdPyqPRQuJvplCbcQbWoC8jUIcqExpm-IaguNDfy7hV7AgR7j9X1GO_QQWY_97WNg2mCzqV__yrkW-vLWUI89mtIOsXGOHMBpzfgEBR88VkLreErb5KWrEpahPDgOckWE4n897Aumq_WqAf2G7QV_-CkNNPo4j5bQjb-Za-imabzu0yQEh6baPVYMt_1RXEBhU4tnaqHjOuzsCs18Q_sBJJCRG_T7QH5-cIFUnM5knpTmztKwL960ZRzvUjvhBBTF4sY96c7JgbIOsfMetz8SWsQlu3o-FjGpL1gV9pSJkavSxIA2YKYAED4d-C15wahPQP19vIVKSb2B7RL8tqEjya4Te5OSDVJ0HcxtVk3QnX6iynVWtBQ2bJ3Y=w1037-h707-no

 

Care se numeste Skembici si costa 7 kilometri (pardon, marci convertibile).

 

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A mai urmat un spritz, dupa care somn.

Ininte de a pleca de la Sarajevo, ar trebui sa amintesc cele 3 momente in care orasul a fost in atentia lumii intregi:
1914: Asasinarea lui Franz Ferdinand;
1984: Jocurile Olimpice de Iarna;
1992 – 1995: Asediul orasului.

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Jajce

 

Jajce este un oras aflat aproximativ la jumatate distantei dintre Sarajevo si Banja Luka.

Orasul vazut din sosea.

 

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Primul motiv al opririi la Jajce: muzeul dedicat celei de doua intalniri AVNOJ.

 

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AVNOJ = Consiliul National Antifascist pentru Eliberarea Iugoslaviei.

Aici, la Jajce in perioada 29-30.11.1943 a avut loc cea de-a doua intalnire AVNOJ, ocazie cu care s-au pus bazele viitorului stat comunist iugoslav.

 

RO5l90w5Gi6AUfrNOx_MmTbKIMnDEXy2qadWvydkhrfiFJyRah3_efdD70SsDKl9MU07UgophuGwtC9MBfbxEd3i4O1SWn4-rKRlY3xvjSrmB5DchciJFywkfg2Ja0WGjS03JibobXLZpEx2k2xMh4w2Ntj9ZA4FZ8Gh_dsKKCdCO-L2tpl8LoEpDTvMWlZ-s1Jf0sLIhMsUV9cUdVQrtr9_sWutIyqmp29d8T3Lw8xAX9xWiLbjtlbDZQr2Z11K_aAnsp3xHibf92NrjxXoY-0htbIPvy85-jZlwbfbOeq8Y7xmZsh6u9S0HWgT-vxUSC5p3KKRhuKDkisut0iS-ACZcT3WrhYfOp2rlazJGvwFTcwJ_NomcaSDAU-Lkd2N514-P_yEvQC489IgQS2q3OZ14RQwC3EDQyu6ZA2wwQdJofry7P3WfC5UZ8RyrC3cfrprxjWM8yvPQvcG-RL8ue5_9jFmJm9vptj46isBMbWlg5y0u3BKD6qq4CzL-jnralaEiQF9cnv6NhC7_94lJjCeK0XcsmPy3jC4i3umdAjchuo4i_L4CHx-Gwyu_WcEURV1ssCiExgPkeXYvZdmgkYNTiYjjEaEAnskEudA-5yCNOEgdVMF=w625-h804-no

 

Sala in care s-a tinut intalnirea.

 

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Pe peretele din spatele salii.
Smrt fasizmu - sloboda narodu” = Moarte fascismului – liberate poporului.

Tito – bust si statuie.

 

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Figuri cunoscute pe pereti.

 

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Plus mesaje mobilizatoare, cunoscute si prin alte parti.
Traiasca aliatii nostri URSS, Anglia si America

 

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Traiasca tovarasul Stalin

 

bsKz9zmGmu_Ek9NCSR1TglbuesL5O8qKbnvis01lX9X_qGvsQo7C-mUHoF-Yt5VWVSNyvOU_owkp8-yv20hmKruwI324ALZlpEJOShTy1I3clbIYTOkMnKI2Rx14pf7L7fUiwTF8-Hq9YL5MCzhUDhpQfJ0i2vpwcg3ssMP-9Zmaa7bLJcroTnyt8utdaQFutAYdtGm1gLEYRms-5kxV-tWJj3EH9ZCeKPxHVQgrf3JwGOvpNUKCru6oWRHDy9nv1c9uqB5JTV6ryAgXkfhXKBt4yC8UsETvHRsvuTMDSDhLEU43PDI_anx_sribQCHZL3EXfP83CsC_xN0JizNWFbOSPM0pXwaqLvin2uL6mu6gDyeawFQL3x170927wNkdu6RsoUiZ7baoq60rqg4fgXFVephzToKytpt2Q__u2oYtNjkR6xY91x4dM3jfS1X_sMuASQ6QWZGJvPe13-HZiEC1yWUjSdkYl1AdYnUSS77spm9s2FRS25fyeM7031kvY_6kH6sxY_2TpowQ-5MzrLtVJVCAZfMAKH6N0gR8hzvN7UQletSAUGenR_2dajMlwqd9OSe4-jIuaSLh2aiiL2UdaXJvCKRHl6lfE18zUKAJ-skQpFGL=w1039-h717-no

 

Traiasca frateasca Armata Rosie

 

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"Traiasca eroica noastra Armata Populara de Eliberare

 

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Jajce - Partea a II-a


Carnet de membru AVNOJ.

 

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Situatia in noiembrie 1943.

 

rg1zI5M5UD5eMAt6PS4MqypSrMu4TjuPPwft7XK3Ksnrz7AEEczpxxh5sL1UhdIY1meeFhUwWOnmbZ-XkVbshNuMcM718skQpCOZajl8dIRi69_dfawhU-3qxDYaCKzTyhfBGyj7TBVcrzOINME_G2-JuY2dehELZNs8mLkKOltoRv3aXYxBiGV6BSucyIJ6pt98mwV5l16Ecg72ge5FwYPay3pKoXP1aBtlATcnlql5Yv7IZgNOaIsZLhJsVJ5AF5JFw6pkvhOVdOjSs2DaoM38Bqm-jSHTI-qh42s-oFDDb5DRwRroDDy9t_J0G-0C6W_ZMTWfI_i86qOsgH7yfIxyq2v70HG2_7BJjolBJ3gQ0ZNCrQTXditDQvjw1Bi2HtbbFvy6Co8rIdUjomT6prdFUcVYH35l4XgiBM5e3HUTBdgZFmvps-hq0iYG9Xxup4Nlp3bNKvBJ42zsmpfcRIEFXNs9pcCgGsWQnDMzKWwv63GCZVfHvGr7ghAFzhrA7uiWzuDE-ckFpPw_Vny2qOBI9VJmY_6mFsLgYyYU70TQFFC-9QV2iG9gm688Kh2MHGa4LBZInWdxp5UzQc6FtfQ0ScrwLJi-ll1qrLP9Qkp69xONG84R=w786-h589-no


Pe vremea cand inca nu exista fotografia digitatala, photoshop sau Facebook.

 

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Traseul lui Tito din timpul razboilului.
 

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Despre “numele lui Tito, ramas in istorie”.

 

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Cert este ca pe stema Iugoslaviei comuniste a ramas data de 29.11.1943, data la care a inceput intalnirea de la Jajce.

 

OCh1Cdva9aQ05DauzuBVVzeH02ASKTAYiCQZY1uy_PuNeT9mZacISazEpaxNppFDAOGNHCSD-Fo0CnUK44nLRvznk9pI6C8bGvERIJHZvpFlqqrh5n-r6twdkdPyehCL9GUlNul_PXj63BD_4OPI-OcuR3l-btrv1Hht-ZQ5yNgHtMvj9IKFgwoXGFUIknmaUHeE629i9L65SpdmC5k_mUDplpXDgCGxspUWyIgfPeLgZxs-wGV_d3LDH7N1MtO6j7-0_t3V5qHkrh0eRAifTPityeCUSY7kFzuo6UZDjq0Yn2HdLZsmkPZCwSlPhHAxJErVZ-WXLYwBnbSw-uGTvxdc7Li4SpjKIIlGZz0q-Sx9bzSBisgCPJKgmPyHLQ8QrKIcOVO9Zk0kYY7MK1gTM2KjvrzAAIH39AmvVDKyfcVgPffDPwIvWeC0Xd6CnALc_3PHY3-zSfzwsLO0aRzWhIhG1UgGdsXeT0AeGubH5DVbFwN9g_BLWhNb4gZ3dUnSUKBcZBcoidJGPFhSpv-3G9u3cdeJad5VFhH00vv-Lo0e4DZu7eUMP6W2ixMnQhp3tZwQwlNDWrjK05x15Rv3nOuu-kHIyHWpAKKhiBu1OxgNFmZEc-hX=w500-h466-no


Langa muzeu, o locomotiva pentru linie ingusta (mocanita) care ar avea nevoie de restaurare.

 

1s7fd6YQ_gviuCYmG2QSodmQ2GUEf0RXUdepDQb0dELmfWg4YZI_ZJpm1-juyY8nIWeAsbdWAHZfk-QXI-zRGccGPe23R9GXoocwRHpxhBm0mT6S9AQVvbsxCwhfiU4fbnJDi9vhmQZ59jjNOwsaRA1VXQB0mYOgRHYjUb4saVoot-7EPvK0yeMxqskfiBlkUsbe4CHYR2iut2NrvVz3O-iiFGzrNQrg_hOoW6F3Tc8XIWUEomLnAwz8KgHt3hr_6kHQdG-Q0lSfFRQguvrDvEGYulKrLi9SL52TBWUNxFl0g_VE8bjXmXBVQ3m_OZUUcH1Fwil5rx8m9VqsoDWKeBsdXLnp6gE-heXymrkxBrMfr6VnYPevHnP8s8ARJR_KUwMY0Y0c1l-1FzL0VwD4WlJsIdWN4vrFLniuZNbKoLEPddNLiR6ZuohMs6kaa1_q9aeeNNBDJtXloos9SVFrkUneCNrTgtWLSojLwEg4qDWB5uJWe2LmK7ahQl0yoOGZx_mW2mpEKvQOjiqLbbS87CwWayUVJA6xhxg_QN2PkpKltqTtl1GwYEbVBdF2uQjVibl3vsAelpnv24vjIkUKx2CVUSvMuz0aL437F9KUC2d9lxKva3Zb=w786-h589-no


Probabil a apartinut lui Elektro – Bosna Jajce.

 

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Langa muzeul AVNOJ se afla statuia lui Mosa Pijade.

 

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Lider comunist iugoslav, de origine evreiasca, unul dintre apropiatii lui Tito.
Printre altele, a tradus “Capitalul” lui Marx in sarbo-croata, l-a convins pe Tito in 1948sa permita unui numar de 3.000 de evrei iugoslavi sa emigreze in Israel si a fost presedinte al Parlamentului Federal Iugoslav in perioada 1954 – 1957.

 

La Jajce raul Pliva se varsa in raul Vrbas.
Raul Pliva.

 

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Insa, inainte de a se varsa in Vrbas, raul Pliva trece printr-o cascada.

 

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La baza cascadei este o platforma de observare (n-am coborat).

 

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Cascada vazuta mai de la distanta.

 

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Varsarea Plivei in Vrbas.

 

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Jajce – Banja Luka

 

Dupa Jajce, incepe valea raul Vrbas, vale care merge pana la Banja Luka.

 

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Pauza de-o cafea, la vreo 40 km inainte de Baja Luka, cand deja albia raului Vrbas devine lac de acumulare.

 

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Daca nu ma insel, ceea ce se vede in poza de mai jos pare a fi ceva similar cu ţestul pentru copt painea de prin partile noastre.

 

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Oricum, parea ca este folosit destul de des si nu tinut ca obiect decorativ.

 

Spre Banja Luka.

 

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Semnalizare rutiera bi-lingva.
Referitor la indicatorul de mai jos, desi Banka Luka este capitala Republicii Srpska, gurile rele spun ca acesta de fapt ar fi la Belgrad.

 

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La un moment dat, raul Vrbas face un cot la 180 de grade.
Inainte si dupa cot.

 

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Si cotul raului, pozat in totalitate.

 

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Drumul care trece pe langa cotul raului.

 

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Inainte de intrarea in Banja Luka.

 

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OV7zUbi3_ejYtR9-YJruq6vo_DcTj0w2QOnMXPA-QShjwn2JxlyfwnoEtDHhBySDjeAf_00lGvAaQz4_RCPYAAjAvKU-70XEZD_oEskOlKgJoe8CP7i5q2JyeiJBAayy_eC61s1a1wkE-Tm1DyTmoa618UARZLSJ-rG_sW7I8BUPm00dQfxCB4y5ym_pdtBXg1yErSGzYajMq9yX0ANCQOceMiQp-fXI8Sw4zJ5kf84oZLEWZdBK97TsW3ATb7XmH0p6ZU_2OBGrbcQFj6CbIC4iyAvyqhJxEt-VHM7E0Qt5pj03gJSMQ4FdjB-oiSSn1UhBcEWLUeGkD7VdwJfjoiUK_-Ijp1uvbR7YRWUvqpo04Ar0prGyRo1o3__hNXe-0AwziBSlER8lbXAP47LjNjwdzqYzRvtzBOLFFWpCP1kPQ8rEGwp2wUd1n6Hp-TbMJ4ok0IHJka8bIfN45HFANbvTzr60wukeiEKc05QNnZKPZnJLutrvEeNBnCvBKwQwkxLj5KpHzEnoT5GsntUV1EGN_AGHyBJy60sg2Lx8L1OdPcDrARa_rcBKyNC2qYRDgxAOJxf0Utj8Egub_8-VzQleM7n5fq-AlxIgPJKF38XnZWE7523D=w631-h804-no

 

Plus o pista de slalom pentru caiac.

 

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Banja Luka – pe intuneric


Banka Luka este capitala Republicii Srpska si al doilea oras ca marime al Bosniei.
Dupa cum banuiam, influenta sarbeasca se simte.

 

Musulmani nu prea exista pe aici, sau daca exista prezenta lor este foarte discreta.
O moschee in reconstructie am vazut, insa femei cu batic in cap n-am vazut.
Este drept si faptul ca cele 16 moschei care exista in oras au fost distruse de catre sarbi în timpul razboilui din Bosnia.

 

Interesant este si faptul ca in timpul ofensievelor croato-bosniace din anul 1995, americanii, desi ii sustineu pe croati, au insistat ca acestia sa nu ocupe Banja Luka.
Nu pentru ca americanii i-ar fi iubit prea mult pe sarbi, ci pentru faptul ca, americanii erau constienti ca Banka Luka este majoritar sarbeasca si ca ar fi trebuit retrocedata sarbilor la negocierile de pace.
Adica n-au vrut sa-si bata capu’ sa-i convinga pe croati sa renunte la ceea ce ar fi putut cuceri.

 

Alt aspect pe care l-am sesizat a fost prezenta reclamelor la alcool, cum ar fi berile sarbesti Lav (Leu) si Jelen (Cerb).
 

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In Federatia Croato-Musulmana n-am vazut astfel de reclame. Sau, daca or exista sunt mai discrete.

 

Catedrala ordodoxa Cristos Mantuitorul.
 

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Deja aveam o problema, pentru ca prin zona centrala o orasului erau numai fast-food-uri si cafenele.
Insa ne-am intors la hotel si am vorbit cu sarbul de la receptie care ne-a recomandat o carciuma, la vreo 10 minute de mers pe jos.


Ne-a spus ca este o carciuma foarte buna, cu portii mari de mancare. Si asa a fost.
Escalop Banja Luka o combinatie intre friptura si cascaval.

 

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Delicios, desi cu greu m-am ridicat de la masa dupa ce am terminat tot ceea ce era in farfurie.
As fi vrut sa gust si o clatita, insa nu mai era loc pentru desert.

 

Denumire de firma.
 

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Banja Luka – pe lumina, Partea a II-a

 

Biserica (Catedrala) Cristos Mantuitorul.

 

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Exteriorul.

 

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La baza turlei.

 

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Biserica care se vede azi a fost contruita pe locul fostei biserici Sfanta Treime, sfintita in anul 1939.
Insa aceasta biserica nu a avut viata lunga, deoarece in anul 1941 au bombardat-o nemtii, apoi Ustasa croata a demolat-o.

 

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Ramasitele fostei biserici Sfanta Treime.

 

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Interiorul.

 

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Cupola.

 

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Catapeteasma.

 

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Lumanarile se aprind in subsol, intr-o anexa a bisericii.

 

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Pavle (in traducere Paul), fostul Patriarh al Serbiei.

 

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Desi a murit in 2009, se pare ca sarbii inca il iubesc foarte mult.

A fost Patriarh al Serbiei din 1990 pana cand a murit, in 2009.
Inainte de a fi Patriarh, a fost Episcop in Kosovo timp de 33 de ani.

A fost o figura destul de controversata, deoarece i-a sustinut public pe liderii sarbi din Bosnia si din fosta Republica Sarba a Krajinei.

Nu s-a sfiit sa apara in compania lui Radovan Karadzic, Ratko Mladici si chiar a lui Arkan.
Referitor la Arkan, acesta avea un respect deosebit pentru Pavle, considerandu-l “comandantul” sau.

A efectuat vizite de Knin (capitala fostei Republici Sarbe a Karjinei) Pale (capitala teritoriilor controlate de sarbi in Bosnia inainte de acodul de la Dayton) si a vizitat trupele sarbesti care asediau orasul Gorazde.

Dupa acordul de pace de la Dayton a devenit un adversar al lui Milosevici si un sustinator al opozitie din Serbia.

Fiind grav bolnav, ultimii doi ani din viata i-a petrecut internat in Academia Medicala Militara din Belgrad.
Din anul 2007, atributiile sale de Patriarh au fost preluate de catre Mitorpolitul Muntenegrului si al Litoralului.
Se pare ca in anul 2008 a solicitat Sinodului Bisericii Ortodoxe Sarbe sa-i aprobe demisia din functia de Patriarh, insa Sinodul i-a respins cererea si l-a rugat sa ramana in functie pana la sfarsitul vietii.

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