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On 2/9/2017 at 14:01, gibonu said:

Denumire de firma.
 

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Adica "mochete" ;-))))

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@haarp

Multumesc pentru completare.

Conform Google Translate, traducerea ar fi "rogojini" insa cred ca merge si pentru mochete.

 

 

Banja Luka - Partea a III-a


Unul dintre motivele pentru care am venit la Banja Luka era vizitarea Muzeului Republicii Srpska.
 

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Insa, spre dezamagirea mea profunda, cand am ajuns acolo am aflat ca in ziua respectiva muzeul nu era deschis publicului deoarece se amenaja o expozitie.
Asta am aflat-o de la unul dintre custozii muzeului, care vorbea o engleza perfecta.
Omu’ amabil, ne-a intrebat de unde suntem, cum ne place Bosnia, pe unde am mai fost si unde vrem sa mai mergem.
Insa, atunci cand am inceput cu vrajela ca “am venit tocmai de la Bucuresti ca sa vedem acest muzeu” sarbul a fost ferm (si politicos), spunandu-ne ca nu se poate.

 

Telefon public, identic cu cele din RO si alte tari din Balcani.
 

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Internet moca si indicatii bilingve si bialfabetice.
 

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Palatul Republicii, acolo unde sta presedintele Republicii Srpska.
 

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Langa Palatul Republcii se afla cladirea numita Banski Dvor (Curtea/Resedinta Banului).
 

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A fost construita in anii ’30 pentru a fi resedinta Banului (Guvernatorului) Banatului Vrbas.
In perioada 1929 – 1941, regatul Iugoslaviei a fost impartit in 9 banate (regiuni), dupa cum se vede in poza de mai jos (luata de pe Wikipedia).

 

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Azi, aici este sediul Parlamenului Republicii Srpska, plus o galerie de arta si o sala de concert.
Majoritatea evenimentelor politice si culturale din Banja Luka au loc in aceasta cladire.

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Banja Luka - Partea a IV-a


Gospodarska, pricipala stada pietonala a orasului.

 

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Pentru comemorarea victimelor curemurului din 27.10.1969.

 

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De fapt au fost doua cutremure, unul pe 26.10.1969 (6,0 grade Richter) si altul pe 27.10.1969 (6,4 grade Richter).
Bilant: 15 morti, peste 1000 de raniti si multe cladiri distruse.

 

Personaje importante din istoria Serbiei dau numele unor strazi din Banja Luka.

Tarul Dusan (Stefan Dusan sau Dusan cel Mare).

 

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A fost imparat al sarbilor si grecilor din 1346 pana cand a murit, in 1355.
Teritoriul stapanit de tarul Dusan cuprindea Serbia, Muntenegrul, Macedonia, Albania si toata Grecia (cu exceptia insulelor, a Salonicului, Aticii si Pelopozenului).
In timpul domniei sale Serbia a atins apogeul in ceea ce priveste intinderea, economia, politica si cultura.
Momentul mortii sale din 1355 este perceput ca sfarsitul rezistentei impotriva turcilor in Balcanii de Vest.

 

Regele Petru I Caragheorghe.

 

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A trait in perioada 1844 – 1921.
A fost ultimul rege al Serbiei in perioada 1903 – 1918 si primul rege al Regatului Sarbilor, Croatilor si Slovenilor (Regatul Iugoslaviei din 1929) in perioada 1918 – 1921.
Este considerat parintele fondator al Iugoslaviei.

 

In final, desi s-ar putea sa exagerez, Banja Luka mi s-a parut un mini Belgrad. Ca si la Belgrad, mi s-a parut un oras viu, plin de oameni care se bucura de viata.

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Banja Luka - Sanski Most - Drvar - Livno - Lacul Busko - Mostar


Prima pauza, nu foarte departe de Banja Luka.

 

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In apropiere de Sanski Most.

 

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Dupa Sanski Most.

 

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Continuam alergarea.

 

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4 km pana la Drvar, venind dinspre Bosanski Petrovac.

 

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Indicatorul este amplasat intr-o curba de 180 de grade.

 

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Drumul care continua spre Drvar.

 

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Priveliste asupra depresiunii in care se afla orasul Drvar, vazuta din curba de 180 de grade.

 

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Desi nu se vede prea bine din pozele de mai sus, peisajul era superb.
Soarele, lumina filtrata de nori, probabil si muntii din apropiere faceau ca depresiunea in care se afla Drvar-ul sa para desenata ca intr-un joc video.

Sau altfel spus, pentru asemenea privelisti merita sa pleci de acasa.

 

Ca sa iesim din starea idilica, cocalari sunt peste tot.

 

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Suntem in Federatia Croato-Musulmana, pentru ca indicatoarele nu mai sunt scrise si in chirilice.

 

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Insa, cu toate ca in Federatie nu se folosesc chirilicele, indicatoarele care indica prezenta unor campuri de mine erau scrise in chirilice.

 

cfVhk4kBr1DYqMGxQ1JUM5O7Rl4NoHkGhkV6JBhrkWUiYaVRJscGahgEueAkr8oRpfEOI7_N33C__lRCzdfstR2zF9rKFRLA18wfDPSb_SOhOcGXcdt0K46dEleqSzn_byCmQVkavjFa2h9yi2Grr7UMrD7ErvFwNjeCjmL90wIryvm6qdTMr3JcOx5pZd-wFI8_GUj5J4eBvKWgwFTKse3agyNQvqoczNKoZwkJl9OUBleEc9slxiXoUDCAK9Wvn1fTAvoFyAas7Hx7XTAD7Asw5U-MAW46Ypi_Q2NA5JM8Pq1TjqdFeVEf4rJXko_wNKBSJkkUUUR_ubaBvn9Ys-3t6hTevCSRxJO1gNXcjyyT9gf_0U39nQ97mS0N_3Vpdwk2o01NWFqs5RG_0PJTGVH8DEpSLjs3xAVhcTsMN9epmnVo9ohdrc0gfvrtqJfBi6vB87_1kNvbEORPbdbR3BXqnqdYpCjaG1HEz9EjjyIj8svUF8xfjK45mhJbey4xy3e0Lk8X_ZRCg6wSO-Bqxe7Pr7tQWpPAUHXnez9-IJiFxZeu4447c0C5OXTQYxPkUiEyqmy9lvpiKtix1lNnB_UYLaNVokTSvri1474H5efTuKWnDJoj=w923-h638-no


Era toamna in Hertegovina [pe langa Livno].

 

UQOzr8YwGxvor0T0-q_PA59wnyvACHbeCEcuveHA8OOaMJ-YOGP43RMXQSCE3gkcdF5l260k94ypo527vT5IBwgbdW-QvbN0dUnB6gVC6UIGFOA8bWHIo9wLwVyJUjwX_lLR4_NfNB1n2vFgmcNAdm1bVoTjJuFyKmFuoKsnywl6CG_4K2mskq3Af1X0m-mOPbffCjQt_E7zx1Njio2JDtqp063jSwGn1YSSmuNARFAcroVPw5zeelvgY3_M2g8HoFTtJUhZ8JnffZTO-li675KTtKDj1cDRLT5vafgmHieUyM5co1sMY4ugCTUCByWmU2tq87OWTA0UfjDbJtwu1ILNy8TABl1nxYcquwt7sEm5ihL88dqgt19fCw4ngTdJsyLZQPuHTBhxk9D7_hoHeWLjprsHZCfPwB6vW5R8GIMigJGlTLyCr1yBHHn2YRq_vzuli23qpdPMXNkXHdhXfqsvPCl9Kqqi0txCv38ho--IDBC53JvHQfoQoDmkN343OPm4nZ37rvdWdaDqS7YhEVxF3QPGF4I4iQWba4q0YXmcdNC0Wd0QGFpB27mV0dkRkLo_UVFpa5ICMkvj18AnhaxUwPxH9MXZ9J5a4AWZbVSPbrjMwGOy=w924-h638-no

 

NkA6AdHGHarEAQ6LrGs5t6Juole6kSfNL_sjs_xFxPgqi7buMuprZMNZe2JEZFCPp3s90uOlWm-s4gcjIZoudcW8L8wMqwz3etx12UToaydZ-JCkpgpUT70QIRobp4yrm-lnKWpG_xRqBn6P2MXVkrVStjR6nWm7zQBiV_CfpHUNFcKjZlxDkoUFoBlkWfMhtNGKvG7834Kse_1eXJvJttFK48qBoIIgpqveuKPpJhSFPPK-fZ6NuXIkWDQf8Dgp7TCgww_xRiwB0qo9HXck7ADPgtLCJDH3744yHyBacU21fswHu7quPJLLojVLdzBp0l9reCmASzQuXvuQz34I0bn7vWAxbcpQenfwSQ54dse3xr3Ax4IVHfUOEjhoNqNc9YNcDoI24eWIBVIZvYMQ2pSomVUAweVmWDTzuGVAyjvel__0ooKj_-AyWO7odd6mh60G0oH1FcrXejSa8DXaxx_biE55t-c8mcyG-AWRd2cHW1hpQdm67XnWn1ub29aNitwdRcVNtRY4ScrjbNHhJb3-60HEbJagYKKSoUHRX6OEDeNUlacyPWYSyTcKKGQFdPoFLbjVNVR8zGamtgIr2iZJrKvTpk4uY19RB3OYolOcJwHg0FzB=w909-h638-no

 

GhbfoEOfnRg5XtEcdx2Qzi5Bt-KH4Py5Uem-0MPUF1d99mMcSvHRVisaKOVD_NBSL563rfUyOvC10CGsHQKEdgEJapDv6s7Wm30qGsQaxEc3t-wSLXqZXcN3wGSr4yKaPmnAs43GqN_brSGbauKX6ujOzfUfCpn-_C278rJ3PrxBkn6xaVsL3TCfbBK4iAeGryTy8vO0KCFdhdwDMmubAwoM456ZOw9yj6RST25EZKhoBea1EplV4yqX_f_cpyiTRjL_nLQh7cJXde5N2fw8YQDtYCgyxUztyBDmgwAi_Ai2h3Xr4yJjtHUZRXTtlsqXkwze6hPR4-rWKtSprC-744Go8MJxYiDNIaGeERPUnmIl6pRlQ0h13OvYj9sOZYJhcfOgbZsLdmcRtwvdAD9stYexPx1dCG5wF6mLnzRufFUbUDkUG7kHFojKjFV7jOMLaLSRUFAcCz6WZSgKzPo9oNLQOgtm6-OsOEd_CMkgK84VJyhOwTjwf05-P9MP9DiP3caWnE6BJc0xRzhoMSH7gEtpHpZpTME1gmGp_6M4uQP5aPuxX0fzbMerJ1T-ubZSEyiQtXpKvb0AyA73dWQlR0ZQzj-a6voA3Biyzyy77Tik2zFSoY6x=w933-h638-no

 

xAO-ffkQwlg8VO1GOYlV4VXx6Mnvz855c5naiwyOroy1pEtHo93cGH8PmbMUaH9r4fx79q0o2r1xhFQ6MY0rStLSv_4B5hbFTYKY0PzRmQSazj6sZvUzBzK3WDUBTD1tKbux5BfgC9qiyry1kQlp1XZgkO5HTNRmbfrSqUz3NoiIjL5FQL44IpHfKwzko5XrDbyvkecRAxjeeIqX_TFf7VrMQWDxfeHBAo12-J4h7EIY3aS5FjL_1c2TS63HPur5ap_RwyMpuARjATZUvAOLV8pjaWMoctaEAL-zkO7WDJ0Nid0KHEvGPVrEzZ95a7_xc5r92nYuk6Sr6xrGUAgdw9ReyJHKlX0W-2Ps4dZQX8f4r2aQxfbwooGiIMNMb698fmWvOVPr3DDa3soWXCePEJ_SpT2BE31tj5Ml6oVHS35PEi5M-D6DOJox_ov9-rL5xzmZB-6llRa3KTjx4w4a_-6YxPYbEadzu6aVjhwN2D1zyrHZdLsY_WTZpJZNCUi6B8ZE67GEy90R58wlhS2dYJG4FPPbQX0A9ovEiItdNvJ2MM-e0lcv4AIaux32hHv82EFqupOYBMRDTX06zSml6piwog-_lcLezEl10TY5qQaPYuQCB0mQ=w929-h638-no

 

Lacul Busko.

 

vu9DocH8Yw-W5BhcOumofrhGmE0ZnEC0cvnlaQNxSyCf-2ZRnib90aUhe6p0UZALlCiSsWvTsyxxKu-cEB40QQrAMOks-v5o3lDNFijMBqzWweIjqlOhDaxamw5ZjZW8Njo5-KwvjD6-sGC7CXLES5RSnfzltzPgXac6aovYKC0SAov38GgQw6g3XeIcX90an_XdS91vAtZ320msWM1Mp_gnxjS6RnvYeQw3zhIaKiYgmV58f9lpL8CWIEoiB2hI1-rU6u4EvYdj7rbpnvrDQB-gEv42GSZXoRaK0up4HPWT9VImYX2xgqyqksFPkiwGAuMuz_G2oZTbov4KqW_pZieY3bdweDPCSSAhLr1FLw4GOLrsaO5GMPkCdvE1upjVeFFvb56nC8BQEsegsrIaR5zVMTRZQBer50Utgfl9WXX_KBZzqzA1L5ThnThb1EoryoBcgv014qeBj2ddscoGT7sSGuAS6Cjz7S_fSOOmEbiUrqNb0h4SkS_mNXzhxqz2iO0yK4vymkgpL99XkBY-B-fd-bkXzNYrUdpYk1GPF_P3vakpckJpV-ejIprnz_jblMzvSPPnQ4kGiWvnTNFhndwuvBGjuqxHAS9KVXrKpVUStNjMZU4Y=w926-h638-no

 

o8QiAJ5_tRSTBpxvy3siBYlsyueqUelrCARKJPmLpbcp6gD5rolpe32ZoVi66EqrNV199ObCOOXrx7ZSFYoAc-0C1DHroOVtU83gNvnqDqlTvHX_V84yBYjX9l_d3DSoWYk0KTWPbifAh3HLxxxGWwDy7BzbgjajAXa91bWdHcOWEutZJvqNLTQxPuK2HmdKHfROXzRx1xk0GoVJiRGiVqM4VzKKfOYNbrxyg8j-Exj34h2X8NXOeGjH3uFFNXTkoXj3dO4FJOPS0g9B8EVId8PSVjbGT92zOP7pJMmheE902vNGqxv4Fc1Z4hm8BpPSutbrOmUqAtnLFG-MxiP4G6fddY_Igt_bjAwYdtWfnyvf1hxQov2C0z7vyakNTkFyujW2wJjkCtGQDiDHLe5SKgg6YLBzFPBar-mmNgzjC00Qhd1dc_KKzdCXR0CB_RVjGqXMJcBsh3qefW05uIqCY_Lp2JiCpEitrKTlgcPBCK9_kHLdwnhq5381YbrVSAARddV_ncAH7RVjUCVrCOW7WoRBYf-jDfSm9lvdNROBBHhuO9MnrYjuepCYJJjfQSK6_nD8vyrUlbAQGMptGYKoAs8FUf-7G9NNo0FVffZw6upyT88E9A7m=w928-h638-no

 

TOHv8QmlF4jbRhN7jyHuf_128eNjmXsGp9gQeZZfoCezv9ZfBFpUwhEKOmp8Z3n9QdjNW2FtrGCAh18BmiI1zyx3cpEdfOlUYi4BNuciTadSej5zxAyQ6aaMijXA5fWyq7fdlSE9-cLmTa_PSxkX00rfHinTBhzFofuJsqRsHntXgp37eVpb923JylmkKxtY1_2d2sRn6HtqJIvNxpLPqPAEnmphxi6kMMhXhQhacvLL_8l58MD9Rbw4rFD6j0mxYYV_Ki4QFC2rj0ui41lnVJW4AXrYze4sG9wWRcuqBZkWJB_DP94ycSiBZULlhaqpK2MoNb-Mp8RYyFoIftI0z7L32ysmROoYG-Lr2XveXnQskUz_njOPCiZoqnBNAddlc26wlemherb9SR3kVt1ZlQ1jsRUOh9Vj5jbQi2zsOqFpLBp9i_FJNDYCrXs_0xYV2VDLr4N14rXzE4BL1R22wRMzFrsiKxGBNM8xvv5mFcI9zo_ur4A1j9zV_4HI2J1Ux3M2b6A_c5g_3IIoyJsnRFEfkXc8EUjau2plBUwoptCmsF67eToqPDSh774gZF16E3jMe3NCSxufwfcYp9P0Su7Fj3ce0bZX3LwPk7jegXFS3tw1JXcj=w1200-h284-no


Drumul care merge pe malul lacului.
 

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8YI_9em0JH5m7tWIkFiA_J7VxszqwyvCmd3cYxIscMXqr5-p8cVVOaQ1t4uO6Nlq1dT2fHn0fV1ehr_8y4tjmUb3eH02g2p0GrHNiY9WSOwRm4ybZ7gIw06bYbiqcUDbYEwknUqvb4IM5uqHc20xqMDi38rj1iusCkWCZorRqWrqgHlac50jI3PB-YfABR5alKQa7uP9wEosd5wL6vp4IB5aac8DtF0aneo3k1j58SPr3Gvnmg4qsz_0iuDwd3r7OXvRytIDtcHYucpf-D35Cc_H7Pr3Jm4hpE8Fyj2whNh6Wsx2bOL8k8N7bwqyDntH_QwIYm172nyYsd8K5TnaMRZvSrOOqD-xzh-MhYv42dFZ3mRfnNJcvR__i3yXbw9ihVDN8Yfnbaq9q5Fhajiy3jbAeiXQPgtxhpiZ2uVLYHeoiKZ6PB6M-BB_dAGHw6wpI7ldzoX4XzdHlVcKj0u2l1Rq18eL7X4mhtjqO3R45VBTqkt_5TzyQLx5ToxItz0pbKNG2TjTIhCp4iXhEwJUrHEPvtmNn5We4msVN7cW58-EVxsqNDn7iuc4Z7PYxiA2m7ZjCRXukMKRSlmqEJvT3zsP76QRlwLJsn7TEn1N_iOF57Z9-CX9=w934-h638-no

 

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Cina din seara respectiva, pentru 2 insi, luata la recomandarea chelnerului bosniac.
Omu ne-a vazut mai plinuti si mai infometati si ne-a propus sa mergem pe mana lui. L-am ascutat si nu ne-a parut rau, apoi cu greu m-am ridica la de la masa la final.

 

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Cafeaua bosniaca.

 

QNGFh7h6I2oLItFfCxcKsYq0U644KrmB56tZQN2c3L-B9o5fBh5gvT3KF4bPMvdHyBUQp3jJi0Zj4L5VknxHCpqwueY4k6JGwP-cv2Fg3DSS2D0gNw-Jrt-59NM9PGZ_fV9SBG7HjYWgegEp28p0l0UsxCcVGLX8-yDDjBd4c7sJYfbFUvVxlfZQofuErwinVk2YaSAhJvnaujQa4_LDGoxhFZoHlolKPaJ4QsjagjfRyEQNQTQRw_h2vZ2ReuogxiDaCTi7DT1KVBlz6ZFE96se-VSVIQsV45-8XqUhmirXCDUNEWtcgz6NvwjicipOXZczeyTTZ_9VOrdv60SP9K86cXsWNjUzu-ZaALz0q74BSwJVlb5UTEzeR9ZWGH01Fun-EZcW0vqS4mygvIOFjHVUYfZX9ns8wmlSvP_As8PqGHkEBM4oFf658Rj1hLY5IHoZzNUjXvnCMT3jAfSHroLU4cKvt_C-mswzXjwPApn7xCnAANhdCI4eZ4rcBpHNSuSM1sdBvyhwZmojv1G6PuJofLDlirzmGSm2nnoXBeHQ_EFbxoWI2fBbRgztMOOTuxSP7LUJmkv1dqOUKKAS7GM6M00dFqC-OXhZm2C9p5D9TZxV4Ofz=w859-h589-no


N-am baut-o eu, insa modalitatea de prezentare mi s-a parut interesanta.
Probabil daca-i intrebam pe bosniaci mi-ar fi spus ca nu are nicio treaba cu cafeaua turceasca.
La fel cum micii sunt originali din Romania si nu ii mai gasesti pe nicaieri prin Balcani.


Mostar pe lumina, vazut din usa hotelului.

 

3F7xJcK6P9Dkj18IIeYRqOtVYCQLI104DnlQSaV560FVzRUyWMhiBfbssigs8HoR2hwNqL0gTQ-mPrJZOv6DLGiG3LbJ5C6cOOXUm_WJzztkOM3thSDUz_PxL60aVGXEVdM6me6jW2yUEPJS6KJmbkzWuwd8RBI-JrLqgAmB_k29esZrtfY_q6Z1OvAM5w0HOxIvfR3eBx8P0aiReULW52LXqKHeuwkTwcqdew0YJ2GNXGfFkC3zMztvHj7qRu2GHtCY5XSs-2I8QRSCQpt9ZZAaimz6bt6Tx_lpt8DQ8exTZkXPXy9B4lU40KGXnAxJqftaN8rZxqnT--MZfIZR9lMzh9LmzRcxNGVwbMihmbrk9-atcRPBjFfgx0LNEYpBM5tziWKENLLUoFkXo6r0JIfxTowfJJHBcNmmTrZDSEw1K21-XQ84sRIbOOXUmCPTl2kmd91RnCwa2GH-5wlVGbeqO4wmVUFuJLhztp70BRx0hBeg2B7RT5kWLeI3Xt9H5uOCWLjOE3Q-xQ0-XMnPlJzPCPPackK0wgbcJDpMFZDWY1bvKdJkd9uUQSZVLLvGO04_mLhjP00I3X1vVKHrwlFCCzw8VeFy6zWwI8tfTW2hCCMfMOM2=w837-h589-no


Podul incovoiat.

 

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Cateva vorbe despre acest pod.

 

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Un maslin, semn ca vara e cald rau pe aici.
 

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Mostar – Partea a II-a

 

Podul vechi (Stari Most in sarbo-croata) peste raul Neretva, vazut din aval.

 

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Podul vazut mai de aproape.

 

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Despre acest pod sunt cateva lucruri de spus.
In primul rand, nu este un secret pentru nimeni ca ceea ce se vede azi nu este podul original.

Podul original a fost construit de turci, finalizat in anul 1566.
Constructia podului a fost ordonata si finantata de catre sultanul Soliman Magnificul, la cererea locuitorilor orasului Mostar, pentru a inlocui vechiul pod cu lanturi si scanduri.

Cam asa arata podul original, prin 1970 (poza luata de pe Wikipedia).

 

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Proiectul podului a fost executat de catre arhitectul Sinan, considerat de catre turci cel mai mare architect al lumii islamice.
De constructia propriu-zisa a podului s-a ocupat discipolul si colaboratorul lui Sinan, arhitectul Hayreddin.

 

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Una dintre legende spune ca Hayreddin si-a sapat propriu mormant inainte de a ordona inlaturarea schelelor de sustinere a podului.
Insa, podul construit de Hayreddin a fost perfect si a stat in picioare timp de 427.

Pana in 09.11.1993 cand a fost distrus de catre croati, care au tras cu lansatorul portbail de rachete in el.
Si au tras vreo 5-6 rachete pana cand podul s-a prabusit in Neretva.
Sau cel putin asa am vazut intr-un film proiectat la Muzeul Hertegovinei din Mostar.

Referitor la film, croatii au fost suficient de idioti incat sa se filmeze cand au distrus podul de la Mostar.
Altfel, ar fi fost posibil ca sarbii sa fie acuzati de distrugerea podului, desi in noiembrie 1993 la Mostar se luptau croatii cu musulmanii.

Ulterior, dupa inchierea razboiului din Bosnia, cu sprijnul comunitatii internationale si in special al armatei maghiare, si sub patronajul UNESCO, podul de la Mostar a fost reconstruit.
Lucrarile de reconstructie au inceput la 29.09.1997 si s-au incheiat la 23.07.2004.

La reconstructie s-a incercat sa se foloseasca cat mai mult tehnologia orginala turceasca din anul 1566.
Pe cat posibil, s-au folosit blocuri de piatra de la podul original, scoase de pe fundul Neretvei.
Insa acestea nu au fost suficiente.
Singurii care mai stiau sa ciopleasca piatra necesara pentru reconstructia fidela a podului au fost niste mesteri pietrari turci, adusi din Anatolia.

Apoi, a aparut problema plumbului.
Podul era construit din blocuri de piatra, care erau prinse intre ele prin niste scoabe de fier. Insa, acele scoabe de fier erau izolate impotriva umezeii prin plumb (imbracate in plumb).
Pentru a izola (si stabiliza) acele scoabe, turcii au folosit la 1566 plumb topit, care odata intarit forma stratul izolator.
Insa reteta plumbului topit nu s-a mai pastrat, iar restauratorii si-au cam batut capul pana au reusit sa topeasca plumbul la temperatura optima.
Temperatura prea mica, insemna ca plumbul nu ajungea peste tot, temperatura prea mare, insemna ca plumbul nu izola bine.

Despre plumb si turnarea acestuia, la Muzeul Podului Vechi (situat la capatul podului, pe malul estic).

 

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Concret, o scoaba izolata si stabilizata cu plumb, care asigura legatura intre doua blocuri de piatra ale paratetului podului.

 

0p_T99Llv4A_Mp0ZvD5-mk0suu4tuiZkYDACbQLEVdbdqSx_E5yoe0rTnenkgRmUlqbeRo1OXyGpG10M7hvPWf0HTT7txnR0xVtjxlPes2Jv1uHylNHVkjcAGSQsvHj9MBQKN-nSHVy2ddEatXVjgD3e2pWxRLe1IZSmKCS-mpBXaa8IBIvmnAsdsIc50ZPWcdlNXPO-oEugMdZN8Rzlkn3UGMtWOexKeOgiygbOHNMDHOoxVFJNrVtH-WXxUjNHwQnjehNAJ08JwkZWsaM_k-1vGnlTjNAhuZ22BHvQ8e4_vHHYB_Wv9AMh7b8hia6ehE9kFLw9n2Qfnb1ae2BEidRXJ8QKlFdmtFipn5ywmqiQUizq3EDR0LLfGr7ip6cKL54Z-rEc2hcHNrguiR9K-hVwtnRCkqFaHKZ8nNIepdmdSA5x-qbgLExjeGXVurxBr3FJkln9hzXtvkTrnkz5qzcN9qh2kokM1u1iGSUQbOz7A17ktZurAunkMckou1sw5u47nHnaAHewhW2XkGJowCL2Im7o2W96ZmwUZUiH3GHhVyy0jV8RCtgGN-685ROBW8Ngs00vFiag6ywkTRAEqQhSnZjvQRv28rjg4_tWCyb9DilfUj22=w1041-h731-no

 

Cateva vorbe depsre pod, insa fara a se spune si cine l-a doborat in 1993.

 

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Traverse din piatra.

 

FO0kytho_Zq2BgAHThiUcy2RZf5rQUnOs8YNVQNL8FwMoiWsLufq85A3HdgCh8bUK1fdZ5tAwQEq4tNjGWtBLHkBtxf3aL7lPSMvyI7hOwcMkXjhncdrG_W0jJk2k9QeZxc8u0SUsRlSrjBZSny3lnaJjZGwop6LSMvs__PuAB0eEqiFP0_fmzJaHPC24PR2s__-s7jGtIi5shbzjqwjjfxxOyq5KHl0KwDi6fIj_6dQ1hMLOh_J3paL9_6qO81jjvfgLmyg_6g-dFndtQiMXwONqTHdfgtBpgh-WzGrZsPlNYA26Eb9b8dcFIF2GwwoGHrymK3aqiz6udPqtxxBef4s34oAX5ChN8JzHFmQLWvuKU2srbLa_KaiFLcozuE-wltLV70fmLeCx62a5PZDTQ1YFn148gn3G_7mcaap9TCyVwuO2tgyFLVcXvT7XNdy_ddKeh7OFxKJySqsgCXEfg07QyYSt2AaNlBQZSocAvL-1BgezmxE8bsgY7VG1medK3qW9Aia2KRwSyvmB29eH_6adXJEyoYX-baUw4w2JzShpboKXagFvDPhbzIbltVY39rhPkMZ7HSRuaOPcdovc5WfNA--jD4gWtrYEje07S0yaTrKlY4F=w630-h804-no

 

Podul vazut de sus.
De pe malul vestic al Neretvei

 

2m7UTxIHZ5ieHEkbkXZnLt2dVtBeMI0Thfeat4-aaARdknoPrCUiNqjnwVfBKEvDfH2u7HglOVuZ6WAYjXgZ-Ur_NbCqnVw88ljhKeeLsvPLWT57u6otdFAiPfEMATICywDMMbIbIx1OOp1eZ0RHIFDQ136bhWhYp5yr_kCyyNBewwQ2k_UrXcYiPeq_krVSOFNCYaURAN87xjKm-wHRYdumfO1L8cpxU4WMhHdSxMpn1ohb2QSUXbrfGDP9ztoksw8nz9bnzwLkoqLbxI4vCpV0COC8OT1n5BiMFUMv04BXMMZVpacTxbBRPdHfhqChwDq81nvK2dpUebFetHfNZ1n5U_ahUzKRLG9bExoOsW-NpAXLkhA1LzaiSjmRsN4TLKL4m-fVjFqQhLcAppCYPINTOMD4qOdPH3vInU0Ku77YD1qrIRMaL_7J5kC8Msl43sd_Ad3I7NjlqIJncD0VUnBozyn9DOrmRpkO8bfbz5n1VgM7xhAeJjQJpW8vbAXRKkRRV32yiceA6HfJa7AIE5qPlRqIuhwT4c5X3dz2VsFxK4KLlN-6EscPB_BuYsMA-py7WwEVq-cQQNjJbUBk981l02Rd9rEbUR3mZGIa_ytfTmsvG3lm=w619-h804-no

 

SPNFxeEWl8Njte0RoiYUSRQx8E61TYIKUrQdFiy4Qo4xqnB9TWzhSr_q9LgLgr6l8WbMyZrvZ3LVskH9sYkWzVXSQWmbhc5LUcVDhne0ZjLe-QcRHqWMJBqn_tZdZ9AebK_ycTJGvXj5JcFInHKr8wtR8EZlgtuhWU0lYRafwPRrPu_hP05nrWb4g1FxY6D077afR4JjBW2SE0DnlmRHPtpRtrbK0OCaxA8Z7PGo92v6eGvtovYtNCvPu-1IUJmzTSXbEPVy5uqzQ7l_I_EPd5ZAXeUrxo01HpECrKkHil4rfYxniGwJ9vR1W2TuV4SkDZ8ZN0OHX5tRtPgTMhceat0530SB67jRgoBAyLh1z02ckm_udRxPIJPZX6WKDeom09aOQT97zGnd6yiH1sZSTDtkdV-eWPUIgoQbq7KsD0POzj4EGDQd0Rg8zyEyddcVVsPiaoR9Xf_0XvxUHdGa8e71iFOFdzfxoeD9dAA68Xy2zFSC8Jybpx5spLyXtR82-g1laA1ZmDITSBZ-BfJLa8BtuWy-gK-i4Tj0v_dB2uZpBO263xtoG_ld5SjhlFxXZ0Ao0UrCAsyRLI7vKG_aSBDuoLPx9_pC6il2U167n_-xGn66Wn1z=w1039-h723-no

 

si de pe malul estic (din Muzeul Podului Vechi).

 

groqR51PiMZZHqgvOXMgOUQqas6C3B1r8cHvGM88zXwLr9Z6Igq5OraM-A_TQOWRkTlmOtrazh7KqsAfpP78jqkbDMRQ0VnWd0-sRMiqnK5vEmiF2iyHJcSGS8MQoqjwpunSqIejhYf9KGEO7IM0mtp1yZ1_t78PB5AHxBerSgUtb1n_UM4kEzLY7RGDEoxBeO2s8daQslNU-jtU_pcR__ZonkmjGTuMORG2jCBGuHqAA7lQUzPGk4xD-1OYqUMMhLi0Gl_pcY7D_GDoLBIPtXzlJSnwDqfGFd6ouM7O4pRVSPRnjqBGb_3ZFbjok2rZ-hLxrLL71tQsP4ZkfuOLws4Hv9BQrcZUdrexnIHR3sM2Y0DiLOBnE-V9Zx2Pj7HviARSSzA4JVYo7e6ho4V9g2SFXb2TD6W6N6n2w5zpv_kKCNbBQnC0DCXPdLIvvgidHRo7AiQwsVIVAXJUZksckS-D0fg_SM45zhKKy6YSlwGnQNNOeaJp9axP7BftBfz70dnuquQTNKAkVZLecKpqMwM4o4xkEKRjAZ_rUBWtUINEzFBcFlfdFUf4Gma-KAP1fxq2RYN1_hB9Ujy97l01BH3CzGeWnF1f4IqntSmgc4AIz8mkgA8u=w623-h804-no

 

2OVgW_JXnVIL6N8qaDUnSfdy0I2Jx572ji8eSkI9qHIRKKxXhqMNNNYRZygD26Wy9S7mdaGAhDeJvy5in_Uzi-Yn0FWUO72jdPgGHPFjbhGlh_Sw5anLtrexLW_7modxJR5ZGPIpiYgkMwujAxZBRUyjNTk90k8yKAZEXnGQMBaxXtkc8lao8bUr5S1MeG8-Bke38oOXRe4_dK7wesdC4BM1uFWwIY5Ybwjdg5Xx9547MvFAYFXU4-7sCZJ713287wbPMdnJ309nXGIGFWZxXcBT3yVVWE4u6jFFT0MJSFfsJJvDazdpI9NhvX4t8KQRHSUzK8GI9-yDq-6l4hNm7fw4-ACsuk_xiMVkf4ymNuzUqL4qLR6ds5xi4M3oc1DA_01TprzAoBrVtur95fxA0clfBYwVr5RB0lB1TDDx-ybY45HW3I09Z4hm8Wg9UZlgFRa0IupimgF7CEfsKtNfG-tyg-EeAAgYjIzF28l_FFG7LyIBe5IszV96EdFvTSnlwMRDndg1lspbacb0t-XhocKfaYJzAzJ07qMKIqdFXRs_U2q-XJlpWIQm15C6UVvQOpQ4OohvgLJRWDP_2vNLRtjYu81E0qgAJHgOUVaUYXwGgVR1CvT-=w634-h804-no

 

ct4usaDb8G4jgGdjpWskf4XSwxDVW7ER9kQ3R0L3BOt4fjr9Ut5ovPTie_oPLDbdggx-I_oi4I4weINtwqzXgGRduZ__sbA2Iwc_th--3a_zYqn9gRg6qt0wBXICWN0C1_bkS7wFaVQI9NynJeHxHEhjhYs7o6FnZReyubxWQqqTvcLnLkzDhsB3paqk2pkzRLaY_U2em6dpxqL6B8Nn17pj0FBNC0Cf2y0ubdzqc8_HYpSEa8icmc3U7BOQZDW9cDPHUUCtvoA09h77_1e4rwwB2gpXePcKGBI3wkB4X2zy9riXxv4_08XeQDAT1xUbaRuTzskzhQ7BH_QW9S78ndpEASAcIst9DPDYCca8n5h2xR7953ZxhFJRA7l3zoVTGKC0HKfXSQkHHS4EE25bRSdl5-CIGH39CHC6fsm3xKWhC4t026aNtFwkcXW6NjRhC-EpZA0uNeaIW35RIKWAnwBsBxVwe7ZmZa1rWU8iho3hck2wXb3AAubz7JQs_AXBTSvEkBNEDAGaiXEEki4yzFp5ot-Qc_a_s_ULFahTJ3LCJkmmcogru2y9aNhRiIzkDc9-JMPtf3A0K4GErd2t78jYLpp4hh5CKN4e5Q-MNFyj4YnhocAc=w631-h804-no

 

De pe pod, Neretva in aval

 

6TC2TRwrz34WnXh7tUbSCmkPDlhpRscBdw1Rc5Fvz-SVZ70Ju8OOHnXJCAOa0pJGK_P1a49MHmfwgSbHQdVXqeZ7fVnowg_uuT6Uv7UQoDGopDdj-AqPFa6F17i7Dd9DQ4px0G_6HLTNIlZgfFXBcOmFLHSCyoVENJRF3JVWgDajfB9Rwu1fDh2Na0HL2ANdhyALzlWWsceVCAH3MO11pXbgJzrQI04LfrY8uBIfuUbos48VoVC5ems6sAKrKUY7qJu7lZp3zV9nhrN0jAPz7OwyVwbnCifCA3JqKUptZ1Gbyt48yA9_NNq4YGltp22xpocil9PfHobnRiMW49BPeVU5PYnSJjv0A08ZOgfg03O0rf85_pc2RJLSGSk4gaHsURh1AWBkZH1D3dKYh16xgWl7moBDl-wtOulU0YaubLG5MRwYAfTju9eCAEVziq4RgqJ8_OrUWIsnn5KezSF2FsUV8lUU3JZ4glnp7NcBByaMFoZvh1enH_mxQ1SkHkqdePZozvfXgnf4DirHaNhQFTjMlEgKmVCv2m9cUc-_aTellQ41BPp2asEGlm35F5EtNg3zLCpS0WclI67RFNobsSc3ybahAA_ROMF4usG41qZihkOYewuY=w1035-h725-no

 

si in amonte.

 

QEj7QM8ws72uc3EHKH_IllRUaKI1Ft3KojAkkr3A4ymAojvJ-E0AGf_HrgRsfoXc1N5-sZ2SAoJYtDKq3Gi6WPBHpIlm__3cPuvmQkhxOnED76KvxP6VZDDF1KgihlM4AHVnc51vFy2cGqlA40jm1r6iKDPsgPcopagc_xXY7wwm1DVTQ-2dG4Em2DP77c8SeAAcFQTEZQR3o8CZgqlXsTJgcci80CNlJ8PIa33BVvb2erN9R51gUwh-p6URQSqs-9M_yJrqaqkplsA7rgFEJEJ32ldST-QuVAFNZDU5eTYgwui4GtvQWLeQDciUeOt-mDbXigYYntw-YXKPKRkHCN2PhaSuX1WcpTj3NxY34uPvCJFs6ikzRoS-RC7JtD7FIwTvcQrxiZ-etytyPhfSbi--SJfeFGnRCpl3fnJY3XlgKsExNeq9f7VgTkLKths2yy4Mnen948sA1w-3RvTG3tpGE4bPM2TsdbIFUSkyIxCjwyAKUL2XcDADhEDlDfRhO1tgRv8luabI6mwgjPDBESCtPuvxnZ7oKqpzrtgMFfBV7xQZDZ0onOA4GcoJnxI63TptUuEeUrzM1GU85VKUmf7r_foyUUAmn-FI86l55OJS7iSP4Qyp=w1041-h723-no

 

Podul vazut din amonte, de pe malul estic.

 

G8Z5tldAqHDfP6_2r8JmupXicEPXcdoeVwFRti4qxI4bVYNUTF6dEyWByRR5gejcvifWe90qgSxxqD0CRelPef7Iv2jIdAL8_hrXrFo2DqjfCpprvyQePvumqFul-Kj1JFuQ9S5q-Bot7yHky82svwpW8ovQXThtusJIclpUeGsqjQU8RGCIlSK_HKRYIPiQ_uEqEa6ERnX-ZTyk8w0mjsI06EUjVJHivrKhbtk2Zm6On4iN23rCKqw5tGkyYsP8L-Eo8eJwPvrG79l_3eBhIRFcAb4vw7P46d-8nR0bGh-uCMKh1KyTcoB186PtXE4gNRbpnBFYdSB7ZkzAIVwo2kUB7UJdfmcPhMXBJ8paiPURg0HNr2ae6z7PyMnpOtZ7xNVVNBm13b3gy_bLf86CRVjMsM0pCH3aVlOc_TzarqGKqpImYj7MFDLFp2k94DA1wJgRUMdG_UzrETKyfCTRJvCPWqWFsrYSGrRcHaYrJSWNmxkI93KXYR9Rq9EDtZYIOtw03NxyIlCWlGEhDeJlJpA9WcuKW5pnT3QKyhbOiA8VGZ3-NWxLYQs-Xpv_S1_Qa2NeSJbEinMQnSDMdE0nfUsAKtSbjgmqPDP9ZJvbK5ain65opbPT=w1037-h727-no

 

KR9mkpxGZUBXug19JbS-5pyiBtcR9ib8hv7u1cGsUzlv6LdQh__0pbjqVBwFxkL-f0PTZHhC5SHgvVxO3_fHIssoPC7DJXntTPGCa8PW0XoSv3HLtGWPG3Jyoszk1uTtMPvwo1moBH3TmnSgJWIqNSMUoYXMv0aJwJJ7fLxj8NHop6aEwKwNEcZ528LdbP6aHH6_fEcOPxOoYe-Ro_SQ7h-1pIqLAuSp0ryZ8xCEwi-h84RjW6iD3lJBCgBpw_5dZjLJ2RPPE_Sy0JLxEC9IPBQ6lr-kfihgWkmaYd3lu2suuHXEpYrxb_GGgRN4pAYMX8Cc2sJSRYBPXVu6G9fjgECvCvxZfHw8KXE3lIMBi_yWnyXeAnsqozWXqjENT1UqZ9zGS5sDA9y0TAnMJArMaLXMetgKkoeaJhJpSCb9eTFNMysGW284wv6cVnogaVjUCPjR5gqMB84JRg9rGFx-jJQrUzmSTcrxwIbXqMO_Z3TeTSo7auzHLdxPl6wm3yUMVF0Ls5mzQ-4qzeh7SMAbXxJQrGYQl89cfqoWz6cqL2xUQLcu5uxiImpUPERKvf_O6jeP_sDBLFaRTjKozoUWjmqXgwQCLwF2C3HpOzMBmvJ51wGHgEG6=w1043-h727-no

 

Iar din anul 2005, podul vechi si zona adiacenta fac parte din Patrimoniul UNESCO.

 

oXI5ge5-iwvIp1nDwG6GeNOsloZ8fl0OCbyGP3IciYrZ2PT3EuGXb1VCaxjZedjb1ozEZzdBVWB-3gwrprAx6SC-NaiTKW0FqqElA8g1w__C9fXQ_tKWMDjXtbGz8lgyW-vFprqisBizRYEdpPHmxWUvV59RzYv2IPOWAY-SrQdJOTZIXlq3TI3v70HeEVpBX15apww23I1sC09ttgoJJlA_tZZBhpUszy4cCDual-pVrpWhWrNvvLXI-kPRKz_a8KwYmuWnOGSlV6RG76kH7Daoq7Tc3T9W8SaLbM1SugxofsjqERJdVGKewrzB7GpTMaLMUVoQ5r53S9lBEpPqX50tEIjXdeI1oo5nDutVXVaGjgrcPc8GG8098GVx2DTP6Mm-LV2rU-wcGmrqOlEWOg-PnW58zOM8XvrXvKVcJwhmUUp5JkeEIKcWghkfWItr7bIgkaUXk7g-AkyjrVqe2d89G9R_OW6pHpwj10F082XTYUiQaZ-28Ie1bGMdYo41SksR_Y7GNyTIluioSemRzHKEuXNyfsGxxJ7yVXeRsBHoetlddimfkUEZw4adc2bjYkFukTJL3-FSmpWN-a-aTXQNBUAgyKoRohC6fe2os8uSZLdXApmx=w1039-h719-no

 

Inscriptia de mai sus este scrisa in 4 limbi: bosniaca, croata, sarba si engleza.
Iar la o privirea mai atenta, se observa ca textul scris in primele 3 limbi este 99 % identic, inclusiv cel scris in chirilicele sarbesti.

Si inca doua amanunte interesate.
Se pare ca Mostar inseamna podar, cel care se ocupa de un pod (most = pod in sarbo-croata si alte limbi slave).
Iar in Lonely Planet scrie “Mostar = bridge keeper”.

Inaltimea maxima a podului este de 21 de metri.
Vara, se organizeaza concursuri de sarituri in apa, acesta fiind o veche traditie din Mostar.

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Mostar - Partea a III-a


Poster despre conflictele din fosta Iugoslavie.
 

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Era de vanzare intr-o librarie de jepcari.
Concret, intr-o librarie unde costa 50 de Euro o carte care pe Amazon costa 15-20 USD (cu tot cu transport).

 

Si in Mostar exista o strada in memoria lui Tito.
 

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Muzeul Hertegovinei (Mostar fiind capitala cantonului Hertegovina-Neretva)
 

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Placuta tri-lingva si tri-alfabetica din Mostarul austro-ungar.
 

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Recensamantul din Mostar, anul 1931, Regatul Iugoslaviei.
Rimokatolici = romano-catolici
Pravoslavni = ortodocsi.

 

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Vizita imparatului austro-ungar Franz-Josef la Mostar in anul 1910 si Podul Vechi (cel original) acoperit cu covoare.
 

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Râşniţe pentru cafea.
 

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De pe vremea cand servitul unei cesti de cafea era un eveniment deosebit, nu ceva banal ca azi.
Deoarece, pana pana la forma lichida, cafeau trebuia macinata pana cand se incingea râşniţa si nu se mai putea tine in mana.
Abia atunci cafeaua se considera macinata asa cum trebuie.
Sau cel putin asa povestea Varujan Vosganian in “Cartea soaptelor” atunci cand vorbea despre “batranii armeni ai copilariei mele”, armeni care erau toti nascuti in Imperiul Otoman, in Anatolia sau Constantinopol.

 

Set complet pentru a savura o cafea.
 

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Ţest metalic, identic cu cel pe care l-am vazut pe un gratar, in drum spre Banja Luka.
 

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Plug folosit in Hertegovina.
 

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Tablou al Podului Vechi, dupa ce s-a prabusit sub bombardmentul croat.
 

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Srusen = prabusit.

 

Insa cel mai important exponat al muzeului Hertegovinei este proectia unui fim de vreo 10 minute.
Film care incepe cu imagini din anii ’70 cand la Mostar era liniste si pace, ajunge la distrugerea podului din 1993, continua cu reconstructia podului si se termina cu inaugurarea (inclusiv focuri de artificii) din anul 2004.

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Mostar - Partea a IV-a


Moscheea Karadjoz Bey.


Prima moschee in care am platit intrarea, 4 euro: 2 euro pentru a vizita moscheea si inca 2 euro pentru urcarea in minaret.
Si prima moschee in care am intrat incaltat, deoarece partea vizitabila din moshee era acoperita cu musama.

Initial n-am vrut sa intru, insa pana acum nu am mai avut ocazia sa urc in minaret.

Scara in spirala.

 

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Cupola moscheii, vazut de sus.

 

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Mostarul vazut din balconul minaretului.

 

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Podul vechi si gramada de turisti aferenta.

 

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Balconul minaretului este foarte ingut iar balustrada (zidul de piatra) nu are o inaltima foarte mare.

La fel ca si la Podul Vechi, blocurile de piatra care alcatuiesc balustrada balconului sunt prinse intre ele prin scoabe de fier, isolate cu plumb.
Aici se vede mai bine plumbul.

 

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Strada de sub balcon, fara zoom.

 

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Vechiul cartier turcesc sau zona de prostit fraeri.

 

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Este o zona comerciala, plina de magazine care vand tot felul de prostii la niste preturi destul de mari.

 

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Inscriptie pe un zid.

 

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Mostar – Partea a V-a

 

Consulatul Serbiei din Mostar.

 

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Cladirea se numeste Palatul Episcopal, inaugurata in anul 1910 si refacuta in anul 2007.


Pe langa consulatul Serbiei, in cladire se mai afla Dioceza (Eparhia / Episcopia) Zahumlje, Hertegovina si Litoral.

 

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Zahumlje = teritoriu din perioda medievala, cunoscut si sub numele de Hum.
Aproximativ zona cuprinsa intre Mostar si Dubrovnik (cu tot cu Dubrovnik).

Cimitirul sarbesc din Mostar, undeva in afara orasului (sau pe un fel de centura a acestuia), relativ aproape de consulatul Serbiei.

 

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Pravoslavno = ortodox.

Cimitirul era amplasat pe coasta unui deal care trebuia urcat.

 

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Cam chinuiala pana am urcat toata scara, care se intinde pe vreo 300 de metri.
Insa a merita sa vad Mostar-ul de sus.

 

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Dealul din spatele cimitirului.

 

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Prin cimitir.

 

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Langa cimitir se afla vechea biserica ortodoxa sarbeasca, acesta fiind motivul principal pentru care am venit in zona.

 

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Biserica era inchisa, insa pe unul dintre gemuri era un afis.

 

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Acoperisul bisericii.

 

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Daca nu ma insel, roca din care este facut acoperisul se numeste ardezie.
Am mai vazut ceva similar in zona de vest a Piemontului si la muzeul satului de la Etara (la vreo 50 km sud de Veliko Tarnovo).

Maslin in curtea bisericii.

 

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Langa vechea biserica se afla in constructie noua biserica.
Ca si in cazul altor popoare ortodoxe, nici sarbii nu prea se incurca atunci cand este vorba despre construit biserici noi, chiar daca exista unele vechi.

 

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Mostar - Partea a VI-a


Inca mai exista urme ale razboiului din Bosnia din perioada 1992-1995.

 

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Ferestre, adaptate pentru razboi.

 

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Un nor negru si urat, insa din fericire a stat la marginea orasului.

 

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A crescut pipota-n mine de mandrie.

 

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Biserica Franciscana.

 

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Exteriorul.

 

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La baza turlei (mai bines spus turnului) de langa biserica.

 

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Turla (turnul) comparativ cu blocul de locuinte invecinat.
Se observa cu usurinta ca blocul nu depaseste jumatatea inaltimii turlei bisericii.

 

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Iar blocul din poza de ma sus nu are decat 11 etaje. La un calcul simplu, de nespecialist, la 3 metri inaltime pentru fiecare etaj, blocul are 33 de metri inaltime.

 

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Detalii de pe fatada bisericii.

 

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Sala de la subsol, aproape la fel de mare precum cea de la parter.

 

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Sala principal de la parter.

 

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Curtea interioara a bisericii.
 

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Mostar – Partea a VII-a

 

Monument dedicat soldatilor maghiari care au participat la reconstructia podului vechi de la Mostar.

 

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Cladirea primariei din Mostar.

 

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Liceul vechi, cladire construita de austrieci si terminata in anul 1902.
Mi s-a parut ca seamana foarte mult cu fosta primarie (actuala Biblioteca Nationala a Bosniei) de la Sarajevo.

 

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O.S.C.E., Biroul Mostar.

 

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Una dintre atractiile mai ciudate ale Mostar-ului.

 

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Tvoj Mostar = Mostarul meu.

Din cate am inteles, statuia este un simbol al reconcilierii intre musulmani, croati si sarbi.
Cetetenii Mostarului au avut de ales intre Bruce Lee si Papa Ioan Paul al II-lea.
Si l-au ales pe Bruce Lee.

Nici nu cred ca a fost o alegere prea grea, avand in vedere ca musulamni si ortodocsi nu cred ca ar fi votat un catolic, fie el chiar si Papa de la Roma

Ruinele fostului hotel Neretva, construit de austro-ungari. Constructia de beton adaugata sub ruinele hotelului n-am inteles la ce folosea.

 

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Spre Neum sau mica iesire a Bosniei la marea Adriatica.

 

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Monumentul ridicat in memeoria partizanilor iugoslavi. Sau ceea ce a mai ramas din el.

 

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Mi-a ramas in minte discutia cu gagica de la receptia hotelului. Am intrebat-o cum se inteleg diversele etnii intre ele, iar ea mi-a raspuns “Oamenii nu au nicio problema unii cu altii. Doar politicienii se mai dau in spectacol la TV”.

Valabil si pentru alte parti din Balcani.

 

Podul vechi noaptea (poza luat de pe Wikipedia).

 

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Sau la revedere Mostar.

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La vreo 15 km sud de Mostar.

 

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Ca si in restul Bosniei, drumurile sunt o placere.

 

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Generalul Ratko Mladic, pe un perete de bloc din Gacko (vreo 90 km est de Mostar).

 

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Langa portretul generalului este sigla fostei armate a Republicii Srpska.
In prezent Mladici este cu treba la Haga. Procesul lui inca se judeca de catre Tribunalul Penal International pentru fost Iugoslavie iar omu' oricum s-a aranjat deja de masa si casa pentru cat mai are de trait.


In Gacko am virat stanga, spre Foca iar de aici drumul devine si mai interesant.

 

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Plus un tunel, in lungime de vreo 2 km, pe un drum national, nu pe o autostrada. Altfel spus, un tunel rutier cum inca nu exista in RO.

 

Continuam alergrare printr-un defileu.

 

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Undeva, in apropiere de orasul Gorazde, in Federatia Croato-Musulmana.

 

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Altfel spus, Tito este inca apreciat de catre oamenii din fosta Iugoslavie.


Pauza pentru o plescavita in Gorazde.

 

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Podul Alija Izetbegovici (peste raul Drina).

 

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In mijlocul podului o placa comemorativa.

 

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Intr-o traducere aproximativa, textul din centrul placii:
In Decembrie 1941 si Ianuarie 1942, unitatile de cetnici fascisti ai generalului Draja Mihailovici, pe acest pod au masacrat populatia musulmana din zona Gorazde, pana la 26 Ianuarie 1942 cand orasul a fost eliberat de catre partizanii lui Tito”.


Cetnici fascisti ai generalului Draja Mihailovici = regalistii Iugoslavi.
Partizanii lui Tito = comunistii iugoslavi.


Paranteza
La Pranjani (centrul Serbiei) la vreo 170 km est de Gorazde, generalul Draja Mihailovici nu mai este fascist, ci aliat al Statelor Unite.

 

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Deoarece, alaturi de partizanii lui Tito si cetnicii lui Mihailovici au dat o mana de ajutor la salvarea aviatorilor americani care, din diverse motive se parasutau sau aterizau fortat in Iugoslavia, deoarece teritoriul Iugoslaviei era tranzitat de toate bombardierele americane care zburau spre Ploiesti. 

Placa comemorativa din poza de mai sus este amplasata pe un camp de langa Pranjani, camp pe care, in perioada ianuarie – octombrie 1944 s-a amenajat un aerodrom.
De pe acest aerodrom, aproximativ 500 de aviator americani au fost recuperati de catre aviatia aliata.

 

Generalul Mihailovici nu avea vreo afinitate deosebita pentru americani, insa nu avea nimic de castigat daca i-ar fi predat pe aviatori germanilor.
In plus, spera si la un eventual ajutor american, in confruntarea post-razboi pe care stia ca o va avea cu Tito.

 

Ulterior, dupa razboi, Tito a vrut sa scape cat mai repede de fostul adeversar regalist, asa ca la 17.07.1946 generalul Mihailovici a fost executat, dupa ce a fost acuzat de inalta tradare si crime de razboi.
Apoi, istoria Iugoslaviei comuniste l-a considerat pe Mihailovici ca fiind fascist.

 

Acum, se pare ca generalul este reabilitat.
Statuia generalului Mihailovici din Ravna Gora, oarecum in apropiere de Pranjani (poza de pe Wikipedia).

 

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Am inchis paranteza.

 

Drina, vazuta de pe podul din Gorazde.

 

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Si o moschee din Gorazde.

 

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De la Gorazde am continuat alergarea spre Visegrad, pe cea mai frumoasa bucata de drum din Bosnia.
Asa de final, ca se ne para rau ca plecam.

Nu sunt mai mult de 40 de km intre Gorazde si Visegrad, insa drumul pe aproape toata lungimea lui este usor virajat, prin tuneluri, undeva deasupra Drinei.
Pe scurt, de vis.
Las doar pozele, pentru ca orice alt comentariu ar fi aiurea.

 

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Podul de la Visegrad (pe raul Drina) sau unul dintre cele doua monumente bosniace incluse in patrimoniul UNESCO (celalalt monument este Podul Vechi de la Mostar).

Podul vazut de la distanta.

 

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Podul vazut mai de aproape.

 

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Podul se numeste Mehmet Pasa Sokolovici si a fost construit intre anii 1571 - 1577 de catre arhitectul turc Sinan.
Sokolovici este un satul in care s-a nascut viitorul mare vizit otoman Mehmet Pasa. Satul exista si azi (cel putin apare pe Google Maps) si este situat la aproximativ 45 km nord-vest de Visegrad.

 

Se pare ca podul facut de Sinan este foarte solid.
Pe de o parte s-a pastrat pana azi, insa cu unele reparatii iar pe de alta parte, se pare ca a rezistat unor inundatii severe, cand nivelul Drinei a depasit cu 1,60 metri inaltimea podului.

 

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Si fata de Podul Vechi de la Mostar, podul de la Visegrad nu a fost distrus de catre croati.

 

Pe pod.

 

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Drina, in aval de pod.

 

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Atunci [septembrie 2013] podul se afla intr-un proces de restaurare, efectuat (si probabil finantat) de catre Turcia, care are in continuare grija de mostenirea otomana din Balcani.

 

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Dupa cum ma asteptam, Ivo Andrici este prezent si la Visegrad.

 

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Ivo Andrici = Premiul Nobel pentru Literatura in anul 1961.
S-a nascut in Bosnia austro-ungara, langa Travnik, in 1892 si a murit in Serbia iugoslava, la Belgrad, in 1975.
Din cate am inteles, scriitorul s-a considerat totdeauna iugoslav.
Printre scrierile sale, cea mai importanta este “Podul de pe Drina”, carte in care sunt descrise aproape 4 secole din istoria Bosniei, (aprox. 1550 -1920) din zona orasul Visegrad.
N-am apucat sa o citesc.

 

Statuia lui Andrici, fotografiata in vara lui 2013 la Belgrad.

 

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Podul de la Visegrad a fost ultimul lucru pe care l-am vazut in Bosnia, inainte de a intra in Serbia.


De la Visegrad pana la granita sarbesca sunt vreo 20 km, pe un drum interesant, pe care nu apuci sa te plictisesti.

 

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Pentru final, bicicleta cu care am fost in Bosnia.
 

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Cam asta a fost povestea din Bosnia.


Pe scurt, o tara care mi-a placut foarte mult si pe care o recomand oricui sa o viziteze pentru ca are ce vedea acolo.
Iar cel mai mult m-a impresionat faptul ca cei din Bosnia par dispusi sa merga inainte si ca sunt capabili sa lase trecutul in urma.

Dupa cum se vede din pozele postate, la Srebrenica nu se vorbeste deloc despre sarbi asa cum la podul de la Mostar nu se aminteste nimic despre croatii care l-ai distrus.

Poate ca si altii din Balcani ar trebui sa le urmeze exemplul.


Daca are cineva vreo intrebare, cu cea mai mare placere.

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Imi place mult aventura ta! Multa bafta! ;)

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Super prezentarea! Felicitari!

Multumesc pentru detalii si informatiile pretioase alaturi de fotografiile sugestive!

Si eu sunt foarte atasat de Bosnia, tara in care am fost de cateva ori si voi reveni desigur cu drag!

Sa auzim doar de bine si spor la ture si calatorii in continuare!

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@Claudiu Moga

 

Multumesc pentru apreciere si cu cea mai mare placere.

Intr-adevar, Bosnia este o tara foarte interesanta si recomand oricui sa o viziteze.

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