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O zi la Izmir

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Septembrie 2011

 

Micul dejun dintr-un hotel de doua stele situat aproape de zona centala a Izmirului.

 

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Dupa micul dejun am iesit la plimbare, relaxat, fara nici un fel de graba pentru ca aveam de petrecut toata ziua in Izmir.


Una dintre experientele interesante ale turei a fost vizita la frizerie.
Nu pentru tuns ci pentru barbierit (n-am mai carat sculele de barbierit cu mine), prima data cand m-am dus la frizer pentru asa ceva.
Barbieritul in sine nu a fost ceva deosebit: brici cu jumate de lama de barbierit si turcul foarte atent care m-am facut baiat gigea.


Tunsul parului din urechi a fost foarte tare sau mai bine spus parlitul acestuia.
Frizerul turc are o sarma, cu o bucata de vata imbitata in alcool in varf pe care o aprinde. 
Apoi, cu sarma in mana dreapta, frizerul misca, foarte rapid, flacara prin dreptul lobului urechii iar cu stanga acopera si oarecum directioneaza flacara.
Pe scurt, foarte, foarte tare si eficient iar toata afacerea [barbierit si parlit parul din urechi] a costat putin pentru 1 euro.


Un ceai (de fapt au fost trei) baute intr-un local neturistic, plic de turci care jucau table si remi.

 

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Plata cu card, posibila si la o mica macelarie de cartier.

 

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Partea noua a bazarului din Izmir, unde se vand de toate, de la tevi si robinete pana la uniforma pe care o poarta boracii in ziua circumciziei.

 

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Din care stiu, fara sa am pretentia ca am dreptate, circumcizia (cel putin la turci) se face undeva inainte de pubertate.
Neaparat intr-o zi de duminica, cand circumcisul se imbraca festiv, in costumul din poza de mai sus.
Ziua respectiva este o sarbatoare pentru tot neamul, in care se trece neaparat pe la moschee si personajul principal primeste daruri.


Partea mai veche (si mai mica a bazarului) unde se vand doar bijuterii, suveniruri si obiecte de artizanat.

 

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Interiorul moscheeii Hisar, una dintre cele mai importante din Izmir.

 

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La un moment dat, in timp ce facem poze, am vazut ca un turc, venea destul de vijelios spre mine.
Credeam ca vrea sa imi spuna ca n-am voie sa fac poze si ma pregateam sa bag aparatul in husa.
Plus ca era in pantaloni scurti.
De fapt, turcul venea sa imi spun ca nu-i nicio problema si ca pot sa fac cate poze vreau.


Locul unde se lasau incaltarile (inainte de intrarea in moschee), cu cheie, ca la supermarket.
Baschetii mei, nr. 47 au intrat cu greu intr-o singura cutie.

 

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Zona central a Izmirului, bulevarul care merge paralel cu coasta.

 

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Una dintre multele zone pietonale.

 

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Accesul motocicletelor strict interzis pe pista de biciclete.

 

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Cheiul Konak, una din punctele de referinta ale Izmirului, proiectat de catre Gustave Eiffel, in 1890.

 

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Interiorul.

 

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Exteriorul.

 

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Izmirul vazut de pe cheiul Konak.

 

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In anul 2003 a fost restaurat, iar din anul 2004 functioneaza ca un fel de mall mai mic.
Adica este pline de magaziene din domeniul vestimentar si al parfumurilor, plus o libratie, cu multa carte in engleza.


Tot in libraria asta am gasit ghidul Lonely Planet – Istanbul, ultima editie de atunci.
Pana aici nimic deosebit, in afara de pret, deoarece pe carte era semnul Lirei si cifra 16 iar io am crezut ca era vorba de lire turcesti si am crezut ca am dat lovitura.
M-am dus direct la casa, foarte bucuros de afacerea pe care urma sa o fac insa gagica de acolo si-a dat seamna repede care are de-a face cu un fraier si m-a linistit imediat cand mi-a spus, direct in engleza “These are pounds, not Turkish lira”.

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Partea a II-a


Zona pietonala pe malul marii.

 

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Arta neconventionala.
Din cat am reusit sa intelg, pare a fi scheltul unei corabii.

 

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Loc de relaxare, terasat, unde turcii stau in cur si mananca seminte.

 

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Alta zona publica.

 

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Turnul cu ceas (Saat kulesi in turca), un alt punct de referinta al Izmirului, situat in piata Konak.

 

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Povestea turnului.

 

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Ceasul propriu-zis, din care stiu, este donat de imparatul german Wilhem al II-lea.


In imediata apropiere a Turnului cu ceas este mica moschee Konak.

 

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Tot in piata Konak.

 

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Bicicleta multi-functionala.

 

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Cu un super sistem de franare pe roata spate (pe langa grosimea spitelor).

 

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Pauza de masa, pe terasa unei carciumi din Izmir. Kebab, ayran, ceai. Chiar nu imi doream mai mult.
 

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Wow! Ala e Durum Kebab, o delicatesa, mi-ai facut pofta! M-au cucerit turcii cu mancarea lor!

Pofta buna!

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@Claudiu Moga

 

Pe langa mancare, turcii m-au mai cucerit cu felul lor de a fi, cu ospitalitatea si deschiderea pe care o au fata de straini sau cu infrastrcutura la care Romania nici nu indrazneste sa viseze.

Pe scurt, abia astept sa ma reintorc in Turcia.

 

 

Partea a III-a

 

Intr-o librarie, l-am gasit pe un turc fluent in engleza si l-am intrebat despre locatia unei biserici. Omu’ foarte amabil mi-a dat indicatiile necesare iar ca punct de reper pentru respectiva biserica, era o statuie a lui Ataturk.
Moment in care turcul, cu o oarecare solemnitate in glas, s-a oprit din explicatii si mi-a spus, “Ataturk, our lider”.

 

Hatay este cea mai sudica provincie turceasca. Se invecineaza cu Mediterana la vest, Siria la sud si est.
Mi-a placut sigla provinciei, cu trimirere directa la cele 3 religii si probabil la toleranta.

 

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Mimar Sinan sau arhitectul lui Soliman Magnificul, despre care turcii spun ca ar fi cel mai mare architect al Islamului.
Moscheea Sulemanye din Istanbul sau Selimye din Edire sunt opera lui. Din care stiu, toata viata a fost obsedat de biserica bizantina Sfanta Sofia din Istanbul.
A incercat sa-i depaseasca in grandoare pe arhirectii bizantini, insa nu a reusit.

 

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Erau vremuri in care si noi cerseam o viza Schengen.

 

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Alta zona pietonala.

 

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In vitrina unei librarii pentru ca tot am vorbit despre arhirectul Sinan.

 

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Fara a ne pierde in subtilitati lingvistice "A blue romanace" pare un titlu potrivit pentru Mediterana turceasca.
Iar "Karadeniz" = Marea Negra (alta zona fascinanta a Turciei).

 

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Ataturk pe coperta Time (numarul din 24.03.1923). Titlul articolului: “Where is a Turk his own master”.

 

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Modalitate inedita de a transporta o tava cu mancare.

 

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Frumos nume de strada (Akdeniz = Marea Mediterana). 
Sper ca va veni o zi in care voi scrie povestea unei ture pe la Mediterana turcesca (după aproape 6 ani, inca sper sa ajung pe coasta turcesca a Mediteranei).

 

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Partea a IV-a

 

Monumentul lui Ataturk, din piata Republicii.

 

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Baza si partile laterale ale monumentului, cu scene din Razboiul de Independenta (impotriva grecilor).

 

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Inscriptia de sub copitele calului lui Ataturk.

 

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Din cate am inteles (plus ce spune Google translate) s-ar traduce prin: “Inainte. Mediterana este principala noastra destinatie

Soclul monumentului.

 

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Textul de sus: 
Izmir, pentru marele eliberator, cu recunostinta si multumire

 

Textul de jos: 
Data eliberatii: 09 Septembrie 1922”
“Data inaugurarii: Aprilie 1932


Data de 9 Septembrie 1922 reprezinta data la care turcii (condusi de Ataturk) au cucerit Izmirul, moment care coincide cu finalul Razboiului de Independenta.
Si totodata, marcheaza sfarsitul a peste 2000 de ani de cultura si civilizatie greaca pe malul estic al marii Egee si partial pe malul sudic al marii Negre (grecii pontici).

In anul 1923 a avut loc schimbul de populatie dintre Turcia si Grecia. Concret, aproximativ 1,5 milioane de greci au plecat din Turcia iar aproximativ 500.000 de turci au plecat din Grecia.

Mai multe detalii: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Population_exchange_between_Greece_and_Turkey

 

Vorbind de apusurile de soare de la Izmir, baietii de la Lonely Planet spuneau ca sunt “picture-perfect sunsets”.
Initial am crezut ca exagereaza. Pana am apucat sa vad un apus de soare la Izmir.

 

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Partea a V-a

 

La un moment dat, pe malul marii este un fel de expozitie foto in aer liber, de fapt, sunt niste carti postale si niste tablouri, care puncteaza diferite momente din istoria Izmirului.
 

Pe vremea cand Izmirul se numea Smyrna iar grecii erau bine reprezentati in oras.

 

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Visul de aur al grecilor dupa Primul Razboi Mondial, denumit Megali Ideea (Ideea mareata)
Cam asa aratau pretentiile teritoriale ale grecilor, undeva in jurul anului 1920.

 

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Interesant este faptul ca asupra Rodos-ului grecii nu aveau nicio pretentie atunci, deoarece Rodos-ul era ocupat de italieni, iar italienii erau aliati cu grecii.

 

Cel din medalion este Elefterios Venizelos. A fost prim-ministru al Greciei de multe ori in perioada interbelica, un fel de umbrela de vreme rea.

Sau “cel mai mare om de stat de la Pericle incoace” dupa cum l-au numit occidentalii.
Azi aeroportului principal din Atena ii poarta numele.

Grecii vin gramada peste turci la Smyrna in mai 1919.
Mai bine spus, dupa cum rezulta din tablou, armata greaca ii macelareste pe civili turci in piata Konak (langa Turnul cu ceas).

 

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Incendierea Smyrnei din 13 Septembrie 1922.

 

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Ocazie cu care tot orasul a ars, cu exceptia cartierului turcesc.
Dupa incendiu, Smyrna practic n-a mai existat, locul ei fiind luat de Izmir.
Din cate am inteles, daca nu ar fi fost acel incendiu (si rabzoiul greco-turc din anii ’20), Izmirul de azi (Smyrna de ieri) ar fi rivalizat de la egal la egal cu Istanbulul.

 

Dulap pentru lasat bagajele, intr-un dintre garile Izmirului. Complet automat, la care se poate plati direct cu cardul, exact ca in marile gari din Occident.

 

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Mic, rau si fioros (Bobcat daca nu ma insel).

 

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Pista de alergare, cu tartan, care se intinde pe cativa km, pe malul marii.

 

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Cina din seara respectiva.
Nu te asezai bine la masa si imediat aparea un turc cu aperitivul, doar sucul de lamaie era pe masa.

 

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Adana kebab.

 

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Desertul (un fel de cataif).

 

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Cina a fost delicioasa.
Singura problema a fost ca in carciuma respectiva nu exista vin, pentru ca ar fi mers un spritz.

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Partea a VI-a


Despre Izmir se mai spune ca este un oras destul de libertin, comparativ cu alte orase turcesti si ca turcii traditionalisti nu prea ii accepta pe turcii izmirezi.


Un mic exemplu al caracterului libertin al Izmirului l-am gasit chiar in holul hotelului, prin tablourile expuse.

Mehmet (Mahomed al II-lea Cuceritorul) supravegheaza vasele care erau transportate pe uscat catre Cornul de Aur.

 

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Mehmet intra in Constantinopolul abia cucerit.

 

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Vanzatorul de covoare.

 

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Asadar, scene istorice la vederea carora orice turc traditionalist s-ar bucura.
Insa aceste scene, alterneaza cu doua nuduri.

 

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Mama lui Ataturk (se numea Zubeide, iar Hanim = doamna).
Probabil copilul de langa ea probabil este Ataturk la vremea pantalonilor scurti.
Am inteles ca mama lui Ataturk a murit la Izmir in 1923, unde a fost si inmormantata. Posibil chiar in locul in care se afla statuia.

 

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In apropiere se afla Monumentul Independentei, o sculptura oarecum neconventionala.

 

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Pentru final, inainte de a pleca din Izmir.

 

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Ce se vede in pozele de mai sus este doar inceputul unui proiect al autoritatilor locale de la Izmir, care intentionau sa construiasca o autostrada chiar pe malul marii.
Insa Izmirul a avut norocul unui primar destept, care s-a opus constructiei autostrazii.
Astfel, in locul autostrazii, acum Izmir-ul are un spatiu public, in care oamenii vin sa se relaxeze, sa stea pe iarba, sa discute, sa aculte muzica, sa cante, sa alerge, sa se dea cu rolele sau bicicleta.
Si nu in ultimul rand sa admire apusul soarelui.

 

Parca am mai auzit pe undeva de proiectul unei autostrazi prin oras.

Cam asta a fost Izmirul vazut intr-o zi.


Poate ca merita sacrificata o zi de plaja la Kusadasi pentru a-l vedea.


Daca are cineva vreo intrebare, cu cea mai mare placere.

  • Upvote 5

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