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Mircea PF

Prin Helsinki şi pe lângă

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Am avut fericita ocazie să fac o scurtă vizită în cea mai fericită ţară din lume pe unde m-am dat fericit cu bicicleta (vezi topicul destinat*) dar m-am dat şi cu picioarele, autocarul sau vaporul.

 

1. HELSINKI

Am avut ca punct de plecare pentru plimbările mele per pedes prin Helsinki piaţa cu mall-ul aferent, Kamppi, buricul oraşului unde debuşează metrourile din toate direcţiile şi unde, din autogara subterană, puteţi lua autocare spre destinaţiile terestre dorite.

 

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Un reper al locului este capela Kamppi.

 

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Primul loc vizitat a fost portul situat la capătul esplanadei verzi ce începe din spatele teatrului suedez.

 

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Ajuns în piaţa portului, am zărit peste corturile vânzătorilor de suveniruri, mâncare şi fructe (5 euro caserola de zmeură, afine, sau combinate) biserica rusă (după bunul obicei, ruşii i-au încălecat şi pe finlandezi o vreme).

 

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Tot în piaţa portului se află primăria oraşului şi palatul prezidenţial, cel de mai jos.

 

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 Din port puteţi lua un vapor de orice dimensiune sau formă doriţi ca să navigaţi spre insulele din arhipelag sau spre alte zări (Estonia, de pildă care e vis-a-vis) ori puteţi să vă răcoriţi (ieşind din saună, că de la soare se întâmplă mai rar să vă încălziţi) la ştrandul oraşului (cel de sub roata  din imagine).

 

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Una dintre distracţiile finlandezilor cu bani de prisos este să-şi alinieze în weekend maşinile vintage în piaţă (după ce se strând corturile vânzătorilor ambulanţi), să se aşeze pe capote şi să bea bere în linişte (beţivii/beţivele- că acolo e egalitate deplină între sexe- sunt simpatici/e: au ochii roşii cu priviri fixe, merg legănându-se uşor, nu exagerat, cu sticlele în mână, nu fac scandal şi nu se leagă de nimeni).

 

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La o aruncătură de picior de port este piaţa Senatului cu catedrala oraşului...

 

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...iar la două aruncături de picior, fosta puşcărie a oraşului, în prezent hotel.

 

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Lăsând la o parte cuvântul care provoacă frisoane conducătorilor noştri (de cinstiţi ce sunt fac tot posibilul să-l şteargă din dicţionar) revin la cultură (care oricum le este complet străină) şi vizitez muzeul artei contemporane Kiasma (12-14 euro pentru adulţi, gratis pentru copii, gratis în prima vineri din lună).

 

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Prin geamul muzeului zăresc clădirea parlamentului, neîngrădită şi nepăzită (cu câţiva fascişti care profitând de această scăpare, intinau acest templu sacru al aleşilor mâncând ostentativ sandvişuri şi bând răcoritoare).

 

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Un pic mai încolo pe parcurs dau peste Casa Muzicii...

 

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...şi peste Finlandia Hall, icon arhitectural al Finlandei şi al lumii, opera arhitectului Alvar Aalto.

 

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Vi-a-vis admir cîteva clădiri de birouri.

 

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Pe tot parcursul mă minunez de infrastructura destinată pietonilor şi bicicliştilor (fraierul de primar finlandez nu s-a gândit ca geniala noastră primăriţă să facă economie şi să-i bage pe biciclişti pe liniile de tramvai).

 

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Şi oftez văzând risipa de sticlă a locuinţelor colective finlandeze.

 

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Deşi nu prea sunt dus la biserică n-am regretat că am intrat în celebra biserică din stâncă  (3 euro intrarea adulţi şi gratis pentru copii)...


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... în drum spre monumentul lui Sibelius.

 

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Peste tot prin centru sunt străzi pietonale cu magazine de lux sau pentru toate buzunarele (cu ceva în ele totuşi), mall-uri şi cârciumi cu terase.

 

lKESPyTkmEi-R9ZoYfHkM8KFBV7MkiQzKoLs_LFznJcgs6rEtuSPeAuoceprLmiMUkOv1R-z6vlQOLEOZZK9rF6ZyqgQCycQfEdy4m4WEDY_qDxrPnecRILaJeYMkTV-qAvgkmWX_VDfXYRNNapDiyvUtoxdsMQZBpXSQmGcdqSOQaPkLQhPvWm8YuTVvk0nAtwQhIU8KbEaeMusEdEtpDjV1TLgg9W0oK9Yye18vFZFejoEyTpIsXpOptkAPqlnAUkV0ayPtR_uNHqt80VqQGmDIJBZiT_ebvURl28sw5VSnVYBpjTMIAlWp4Enr-p7F0hDkVArDjjm6njJEjvNIGX5hHBMF4NSnMKJJ2ba-kJMFc_zWUSVgqG5CiGeknDdbV0ofDNzBlKlGQenIihjFXhEuOLJpd-J4Lz_B61pm7kKsaBMsmYJRBLThg6bFooudM0TxleNh6QOdsV3a1TZaVNEn7VVbrADbxXfIMzAscwd3zk9ApG9vDA8IPQt8GgZuPrYL2I3BAF3usJsxSHLUDVk2xypFQxeAHpn8KiGZKZ3vMZT-Qyl_9vIEOWWCTvJ8yGMv8dZ11cEaZM9KDTzQYvnQHkdwa-0zX0YbgAm=w1024-h575-no

 

Dacă aţi obosit, hop într-un autobuz care vă plimbă prin oraş (30 euro/adult, 15 euro/copil).

 

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Io de banii ăia am mers pe jos şi astfel am descoprit şi lucruri inedite ca de pildă statuia crenvurşti-ului.

 

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De vizitat şi muzeul design-ului finlandez din imediata vecinătate a bisericii Sf Ioan (cea cu 2 turnuri gemene) - 12 euro/adult, gratis/copii.

 

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Doamnele, domnişoarele, domnii, domnişorii, copiii finlandezi preferă să circule cu bicicleta sau transportul în comun (şi deşi oraşul este foarte aglomerat n-am auzit un claxon şi n-am văzut nici o maşină parcată în afara spaţiilor destinate).

 

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Şi ca doamnele/domnişoarele să nu se indigneze/chicotească ţin să precizez că un cuvânt aflat permanent pe buzele românilor înseamnă în finlandeză chiflă.

 

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Închei cu mândrie patriotică la vederea simbolului imaginii României în lume, prezent şi aici.

 

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Dacă doriţi să mai vedeţi câteva imagini din Helsinki, le găsiţi aici https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipObaszXlezUBskYO47Y_7Db9qwRIieYmt9HWkUYfQPDX1MbtxbZI2hh2WjtXHYs4Q?key=ZS1IckF6UjJ5TFdHa2pkYTdhekV1emFHVG1QN3N3.

 

va urma...

 

*

 

 

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Foarte fain!

Mulțam de relatare, că prin zona aia încă nici n-am îndrăznit să planific ceva :)

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2. SUOMENLINNA

 

Suomenlina este o insulă fortificată (denumită şi Gibraltarul Nordului) care era pe vremuri cea mai importantă fortăreaţă a Balticii. Ridicată de suedezi (care i-au încălecat şi ei o bună bucată de vreme pe fini) în 1748, este astăzi cel mai vizitat sit istoric din Finlanda, în patrimoniul UNESCO. Vizitarea insulei e gratis dar în unele muzee de acolo se plăteşte intrarea.

Este la o aruncătură de vapor (cca 15 minute iar biletul de 5 euro pentru mijloacele de transport în comun e valabil dacă nu aţi depăşit timpul alocat) pe care-l puteţi lua din piaţa portului; nu vă panicaţi dacă vaporul v-a plecat de sub nas deoarece frecvenţa lor e apreciabilă.

 

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Lăsăm în urmă portul...

 

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...şi ajungând pe insulă ne lăsăm (sau nu) purtaţi de valurile de turişti.

 

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Putem rătăci printre, prin, pe lângă sau pe zidurile groase ale fortăreţei.

 

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Obsedaţi de natură încă din tinereţea lor istorică, finii făceau găuri până şi în fortăreţe ca să zărească un pic de verde.

 

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Dacă aveţi (cam multă) răbdare puteţi imortaliza catacombele fără capete, trunchiuri, părţi de membre de turişti, atât pe dinăuntru... 

 

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...cât şi pe dinafară.

 

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Cum dă un pic de soare finii ies ca muştele la căldură.

 

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Între timp pacheboturile trec alene.

 

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Marry Poppins, varianta coreeană, pregătindu-se de încărcare pentru decolare.

 

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Zbor pe dos: sus catedrala Helsinki, jos pescăruşul.

 

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Trăgând cu Canon-ul în tun.

 

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Trăgând cu ochiul la insula vecină.

 

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Poarta regilor.

 

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Finlandezii vin aici (mai ales în weekend) ca să bea bere, să stea pe iarbă, să bea bere, să stea pe stânci, să bea bere, să iasă în aer liber cu familia sau prietenii, să bea bere şi tot aşa...

 

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Ăştia sunt mai buni ca radarul la identificat ce aveţi în mână de mâncat şi dacă nu sunteţi atenţi, rămâneţi cu mâna goală.

 

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Pe drumul de întoarcere admirăm pacheboturile care, fiind o seară de weekend, cară finlandezii făcuţi pulbere de alcool din Estonia înapoi...

 

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...şi trecem pe lângă insule cu construcţii faine care habar n-am ce funcţiune au.

 

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va urma...

 

 

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3. PORVOO

Porvoo, o destinaţie turistică foarte populară situată la cca 50 km est de Helsinki, este primul oraş atestat documentar din Finlanda (1346) renumit prin clădirile sale din secolele 18-19 foarte bine păstrate şi prin catedrala din secolul 15.

Pentru a ajunge acolo puteţi lua autocarul din autogara situată sub mall-ul Kamppi, biletul costând cca 13 euro dus-întors, cu menţiunea că dacă luaţi astfel de bilet , la întoarcere trebuie să utilizaţi aceeaşi firmă de transport (nu contează ora).

 

Ajunşi în Porvoo...

 

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...trecem noul pod pietonal...

 

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...pentru a admira de vis-a-vis casele roşii străvechi înşirate de-a lungul apei ...

 

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...sau pe cele moderne mimând sintetic suratele lor istorice.

 

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Eu am admirat şi tinerele vlăstare ale Porvoo-ului care navigau în cojile lor de nucă ca şi Degeţica lui Andersen pe frunza de nufăr.

 

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Constatăm că, în timp ce englezii le-o trăgeau francezilor în bătălia de la Crécy din cadrul obositorului război de 100 de ani, finlandezii atestau documentar primul lor oraş.

 

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Trecem apoi pe lângă terasa de pe corabie...

 

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...şi privim pe îndelete casele care fac celebru Porvoo-ul.

 

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Toate sunt active; unele sunt mici restaurante...

 

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...altele cafenele...

 

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...magazine cu suveniruri, muzee sau case de locuit.

 

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Asta nu e istorică dar e de folos dacă ai băut mai multă bere.

 

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vedem cea mai veche gară din Finlanda...

 

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...cu locomotiva aferentă.

 

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Trecem podul vechi şi intrăm în oraşul istoric propriu-zis unde au acces mecanizat doar riveranii şi mentenanţa (2 CV-ul nu se pune că-i simpatic).

 

P--obmtB2fCXuI65hXDILlUb3RCwmSWebCTxxpSZUh8FRT7ur0IZERlPxiBO2_p_KBSoDoKXKVq_INXeZnsEIe99FmNEm6homti8h7koKClUbl0Ddug2aFv5dGBwPfnH_0kNe3nhCKnVtOT5TJpc6-irxTzCccowKCfV4QjXC8NdYG2N06iz7ZX5aLhOyBauIT89XDzFU-3LbpaEfX1iTGqcJNDT90WvClhG4vzr_pufEsuhawYGDOufaXyAwDrhQj-N9Uplq9v2ACTlj4zXGCqoVdUG8l6bV_ihPyPy0KAt7pPuvse63ThrJRhnUGLDjReptRm-FHE5I0Nl3ZGKpYj_UqJsvPADk07abbPiGf7TorZOp42u8DaBG3pHLVlNYF-bUjZ9t8HoPri00m-vVV6i5en42gToKixOPhDFQIQ0hIj-5np9-_MP8qG97WJsSDH2UGJSN6fGFLfra4VOAuMb7ROcNbj6XC5WrxISs5Yc8zS8CFBT9f_wuoLumNVhoDHOLG4PSaGh3Yx93V7AbelR1T5mk_1dqkLlLzw9cGVVZyCch01jgmwJLmyMUQBfzVFI6H2WlhEWUJS3jUZT5MLQB32h6Qcup7fq0Rf9=w1024-h564-no

 

Urcăm pieptiş o străduţă pavată cu piatră de râu şi intrăm în curtea catedralei.

 

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N-am putut pătrunde în catedrală deoarece înăuntru se desfăşura o ceremonie privată, în schimb ne-am uitat ca şi curca-n lemne la zidul de piatră al clopotniţei.

 

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Am trecut pe lângă restaurantul cu terasă al unui nene cu pălărie de cow-boy, păr prins în coadă cu fundiţă şi haină brodată cam ca a lui Fuego...

 

WVxqh3qC9-gb0XIdrzaDGYhSYBQPFfvJWZJTHOJNdly65ZY0-yqem5GOtst0wEPyZKpb4iT9mfEtwpXaY7hNBhYNmmzvo7iaZaebuabf_94WEXf-MP0xRpNOXo8LPKcZmJ7JRWi4RKTaAgbGbl5daEQ9B34UKEODGTLLSPX-x6gkQ1SibD-fMKZDjDuAo19PzHW3gVlIKdIWbHfL6UUdJtP93KMCMyn7Ax3ViB6oEDhx9Va9n7tByXJhU3P44JH2K0DZzkSHHHR8CgnhHwDmT93NEjS9zPv9hFsZYufE-H_6hfe36xdTIGQB13Rz8k7Qja3JmEedVMgaHooiJtIsEeJZxtianauvFdAYOr6dIlgGxGR3H7WDPCILQvXdt3kjGcdYjjbKkbIpHKPsERDlhQ1PtN9J3CJQQdsxcxQ7VC2N11lnUeySRDJHLGl7x7tJyrWGuowjc-sxUp-C5QzK4-g4lFj4JXNWMB8Xhp5wdSxbm1Hkh42VDQtp3sgPvbIP7xR_d4ucCVslTN0-3gV7MfJchoXgTbVpq47PcTXWlsEVeGPWRGvtpVRlTjstbx3YVM2q9jpYcjmY-2iVbfc8dLrHJLO5q3ImfFsYbzQ1=w1024-h573-no

 

...pe lângă regele covrigilor...

 

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un Ducu Bertzi local...

 

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...şi pe lângă multe alte case, fiecare dintre ele adăpostind câte ceva interesant...

 

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...de pildă un magazinaş cu jucării vechi şi deosebit de scumpe.

 

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Într-un final ne-am luat rămas bun de la Porvoo uitând să urcăm şi dealul castelului (dealul mai e, castelul nu).

 

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va mai urma ceva...

 

 

 

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Pot să apăs "Raportează acest conținut"?
Mă omori încet.

 

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Poți liniștit dar te sfătuiesc să raportezi la guvern sau parlament că ăia te omoară mai repede. :)

Oricum mai am doar un calup de imagini după care poți părăsi topicul (sau țara).

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Păi, cu pozele astea (și altele care „zac” prin relatările strânse-n ani pe forumul ăsta) și cu Noua Ordine Socială de pe meleagurile astea, e posibil ca din ce în ce mai mulți să luăm în calcul varianta a doua, măcar la nivel de idee :).

 

Mulțumim pentru poze și poveste!

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4. PLUTIND PRIN ARHIPELAGUL ESPOO

Într-o bună dimineaţă am zis să părăsesc pământul sigur şi să mă avânt pe mare încercând un slalom printre puzderia de insule a arhipelagului Espoo dar nu înot ci cu vaporaşul din portul Haukilahti. Biletul pentru tur costă 12 euro şi poţi rămâne pe oricare dintre insuliţe să faci grătar, plajă sau să zgribuleşti (funcţie de vreme) putând lua alt vapor cand ai chef să pleci (numai să întrebaţi dacă vaporul respectiv merge unde vreţi să ajungeţi pentru că unele se opresc definitiv în anumite porturi, nu fac turul complet ). Un tur al arhipelagului durează cca 4 ore.

 

Aşadar lăsăm în urmă portul şi UFO-ul din Espoo...

 

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...şi trecem pe lângă plaja...

 

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...şi restaurantul din portul de agrement Nokkalan.

 

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Vaporaşul navighează printre zecile de insule unele locuite...

 

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...altele nelocuite ci doar vizitate...

 

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...evident dotate cu grătarul şi depozitul de lemne aferent.

 

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Imagine cu cotul secundului şi vaporaşul din dotare într-un scurt popas pe una dintre insule.

 

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La un moment dat soarele (destul de zgârcit) a intrat în nori şi s-a pornit un vânt tăios...

 

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...care m-a alungat sub punte la căldură deşi eram destul de bine îmbrăcat (am fost prevenit de posibilitatea colorării bronzului meu cu nuanţe vineţii de frig).

 

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Odată cu reapariţia soarelui am răsărit şi eu pe punte ca să admir un yaht care mai mult ca sigur nu aparţine vreunui preşedinte de consiliu judeţean finlandez.

 

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Şi trecem pe lângă alte insule...

 

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...pe unele dintre ele oprind...

 

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...ca să coboare finlandezi dornici de grătar, pescuit sau stat în vânt pe pietre.

 

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Cum încă nu ieşise complet frigul din mine am preferat să stau pe vapor şi să urmăresc o raţă ce-şi învăţa puiul să bată apa cu labele...

 

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...sau să încerc să învăţ cum dau drumul în apă bărcii de salvare.

 

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Pe drumul de întoarcere prind momentul în care nişte localnici vor să taie o raţă cu yahtul ca s-o pună probabil pe grătar...

 

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în timp ce căpitanul se face că nu vede (din solidaritate marinărească probabil).

 

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Şi mai trecem pe lângă nişte insule...

 

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...pe una dintre ele găsind 10 din cele 12 scaune căutate de Ostap Bender şi Ippolit Matveevici Vorobianinov.

 

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În cele din urmă se iveşte Otaniemi (cartier al Espoo-ului) în portul căruia se încheie turul arhipelagului...

 

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...nu înainte ca secundul să plieze antena, radarul şi coşurile de fum ale vaporaşului, pentru ca acesta să încapă sub ultimul pod de doar 3,5 m înălţime liberă.

 

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Şi-am încălecat pe-o şa (uneori) şi v-am spus povestea aşa!

 

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Din păcate m-am întors în scumpa noastră patrie unde potrivit noului cod penal cea mai gravă infracţiune este să fii om cinstit.

Dar Finlanda s-a bucurat că a scăpat de hoitul meu inutil la vârsta lui, dându-mi semne clare în acest sens.

 

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PS: mulţumesc tuturor pentru atenţie şi aprecieri.

PS 2: pentru cine nu s-a plictisit un fel de rezumat al şederii mele în Finlanda găsiţi aici: https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipPtySd-9_DWdS3EjmoK3fy1Xw8zHP5t-fTN-NP3t7NuzBRjEPsVGOmZbZX5D_fZSA?key=OGxtV0tRR0JsSy1UOVB0ZGVoekxFazNrNXl3bGJ3

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